Crochet Demogorgon Amigurumi Free Pattern

Stranger Things gave the Demogorgon one of the most recognizable silhouettes in recent pop culture, and this crochet version translates it into amigurumi form with surprising accuracy. The oversized red petal head, assembled from individual triangular pieces joined around a central disc, sits on a chunky gray chenille body with stubby limbs that soften the whole design into something you actually want to display on a shelf.

Crochet Demogorgon Amigurumi

Materials & Tools

Yarn:

• Cool-toned off-white, light grey, or beige weight 4 acrylic yarn — for the head, body, arms, legs, and skin-side of the face petals
• Red yarn — for the inner mouth disc and the red-side of the face petals
• Note: A size 7 super bulky yarn and a larger hook can be used in place of the standard weight 4 if you want a giant plush version — all pattern rounds stay identical, only the scale changes

Hook: 3.5 mm

Other supplies:

• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing

Abbreviations

• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
• dec — Decrease (invisible decrease recommended throughout)
• BLO — Back loop only
• st — Stitch

Technique Notes — With Tips Built In

• Magic ring: Every main piece opens with a magic ring. Form a loop with the yarn draped over your fingers, insert your hook through the loop, pull up a working strand, chain 1 to secure. Work the first-round stitches directly into the ring’s center opening. Pull the tail to close the ring completely before continuing. A tight center with no hole is especially important on the red mouth disc, which sits flat against the front of the head — any gap at its center reads visibly on the finished piece.
• Continuous rounds and stitch markers: All the main pieces — head, body, arms, legs, and the mouth disc — are worked in continuous spirals with no joining slip stitch at the end of each round. Place a locking stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up each time a new round begins. On light grey or off-white yarn, the stitch definition is easy to see, but the arms and legs are narrow enough that miscounting by one in the early rounds causes noticeable shape problems later. Count at the end of Rounds 2, 3, and 4 on every piece.
• Staggered increases for a round head: The head and body rounds use staggered increase spacing — the position of each increase shifts by one stitch between rounds rather than lining up vertically. This prevents the visible ridges and flat facets that occur when increases stack directly above each other round after round. Work each increase combination exactly as written and the sphere stays smooth.
• Invisible decrease: The invisible decrease is strongly recommended for all dec stitches in this pattern. Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the stitch after it — 2 loops on hook from two separate stitches. Yarn over and pull through both loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops. This leaves a nearly invisible join on the right side and no gap, which matters most during the head’s closing rounds where the cream surface is prominent and visible.
• BLO round on the leg foot: Round 4 of the leg is worked into the back loop only of every stitch. Working BLO leaves the front loops of Round 3 exposed as a visible ridge that runs around the base of the foot — this is the structural detail that visually defines the foot edge and creates the platform the decreases in Round 7 work against to shape the ankle. The BLO round itself is just single crochet worked into one loop instead of two; it looks and feels exactly the same once you locate the back loop.
• The popcorn stitch thumb: Round 5 of the arm includes one popcorn stitch that forms the thumb. Work 4 sc into the single 5th stitch of the round, drop the loop from your hook, insert the hook into the first of those 4 sc from the front, catch the dropped loop, and pull it through to close the cluster. The popcorn puffs outward on the right side. The stitch count in the arm naturally drops slightly to approximately 7 stitches after Round 5 due to the popcorn pulling tight — this is correct and produces the tapered wrist shape the arm needs.
• Stuffing the foot before the leg: After completing Round 7 of the leg, the ankle decreases close quickly. Stuff the foot firmly at this point before continuing with the leg rounds — the foot cavity is too small to reach into easily once the leg tube extends above it.
• The petal join technique: Each face petal is made as two separate flat triangles — one in skin color and one in red — then joined by crocheting down their side edges with both layers held together. This is a flat-panel joining technique rather than a seam, and it produces a clean dual-tone petal with no raw edges visible. Read through the full petal joining instructions before starting any petals so the color switching at the base and the corner treatment at the peak both make sense before you begin.
• Assembly order: Complete all pieces fully before beginning assembly. Position the red mouth disc on the head first, pin and sew it flat. Then pin all five petals symmetrically around its perimeter before sewing any of them. Attach the body to the head, then the arms, then the legs. Checking the overall balance and centering at each stage prevents the finished figure from leaning or looking asymmetrical.

The Pattern

The Head

Use skin color yarn. Work in continuous rounds with a stitch marker. Increases are staggered between rounds to maintain a smooth sphere.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 6 increases total, one into each stitch from Round 1

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 4:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch, then 1 sc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round
• The increase position shifts by one stitch from Round 3, keeping the sphere round rather than faceted

Round 5:

• Work 3 sc across the first three stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 6:

• Work 2 sc, then 1 inc, then 2 sc
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc — a total of 6 times around the round

Rounds 7 through 14:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• Repeat this same even round a total of 8 times
• These rounds build the full volume and height of the head

Round 15:

• Work 2 sc, then 1 invisible dec, then 2 sc
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 16:

• Work 3 sc across the first three stitches, then 1 invisible dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 17:

• Work 1 sc, then 1 invisible dec, then 1 sc
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round

Stuff the head firmly now — add fiberfill in small pieces, working it toward the outer walls first before filling the center, so the sphere holds a smooth, even round shape. Do not delay past this round — the opening narrows quickly.

Round 18:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 invisible dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 19:

• Work 1 invisible dec over every pair of stitches around — 6 decreases total, worked sequentially

Finishing:

• Fasten off, leaving a tail of approximately 15 cm
• Thread the tail onto your tapestry needle and weave it through the front loops of the remaining stitches all the way around the opening
• Pull steadily to draw the top closed into a seamless circle
• Knot securely and push the needle through the head to bury the tail completely inside before snipping

The Body

Use skin color yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 6 increases total

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 4:

• Work 1 sc, then 1 inc, then 1 sc
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 5:

• Work 3 sc, then 1 inc
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 6 times around the round

Rounds 6 through 9:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 4 times

Round 10:

• Work 3 sc, then 1 invisible dec
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 11:

• Work 1 sc, then 1 invisible dec, then 1 sc
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round

Rounds 12 through 17:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 6 times

Stuff the body firmly now before the opening closes further.

Round 18:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 invisible dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 6 times around the round
• Add any final top-up of fiberfill through the remaining opening
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the body to the head

The Arms (Make 2)

Use skin color yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch, then 1 sc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc — a total of twice around the round

Rounds 3 and 4:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across both rounds

Round 5 — The Popcorn Thumb:

• Work 4 sc across the first 4 stitches
• On the 5th stitch, work the popcorn stitch: work 4 sc all into that single 5th stitch, drop the loop from your hook, insert your hook from front to back into the first of those 4 sc, catch the dropped loop, and pull it through to close and lock the cluster into a raised bump on the right side
• Work 3 sc across the remaining stitches to finish the round
• Note: The stitch count naturally drops to approximately 7 stitches after this round due to the popcorn pulling tight — this is correct and produces the tapered wrist shape

Rounds 6 through 15:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 10 times
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Make a second arm in exactly the same way, ensuring the popcorn thumb is worked at the same position

The Legs (Make 2)

Use skin color yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 6 increases total

Round 3:

• Work 3 sc across the first three stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 3 times around the round

Round 4 — BLO Ridge:

• Work 1 sc into the back loop only of every stitch around — insert your hook under only the back loop of each stitch rather than under both loops as usual
• The front loops left unworked in this round create a visible horizontal ridge running around the base of the foot — this is the structural detail that defines the foot edge and supports the ankle shaping in Round 7

Rounds 5 and 6:

• Work 1 sc into both loops of every stitch around as normal, with no shaping changes across both rounds

Round 7 — Ankle Shaping:

• Work 2 sc
• Work 6 invisible decreases in succession across the front of the foot — each dec pulls 2 stitches into 1, rapidly closing the front toe area to create the ankle indentation
• Work 1 sc to finish the round

Stuff the foot tightly now — pack fiberfill firmly into the toe and heel before the ankle narrows further. Then lightly stuff the beginning of the leg cavity before continuing.

Rounds 8 through 17:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 10 times, building the leg tube upward
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Make a second leg in exactly the same way, ensuring the front foot decreases face the same direction on both legs

The Inner Mouth Background Disc

Use red yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly — a gap-free center is important here since this disc sits prominently on the face

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 6 increases total

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 4:

• Work 1 sc, then 1 inc, then 1 sc
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 5:

• Work 3 sc, then 1 inc
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 6:

• Work 2 sc, then 1 inc, then 2 sc
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 7:

• Work 5 sc across the first five stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 5 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 6 times around the round
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the disc flat against the front of the head

The Face Petals (Make 5)

Each petal is made as two separate flat triangles — one in skin color and one in red — then joined together along the sides with both layers held together. Make all 5 skin triangles and all 5 red triangles before joining.

Work in rows throughout. Chain 1 to turn at the end of each row. The chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

Row 1:

• Chain 2
• Work 2 sc into the first chain from the hook
• Chain 1 and turn

Row 2:

• Work 1 sc into each stitch across
• Chain 1 and turn

Row 3:

• Work 1 inc into the first stitch (2 sc into the same stitch)
• Work 1 inc into the next stitch
• Chain 1 and turn

Row 4:

• Work 1 sc into each stitch across
• Chain 1 and turn

Row 5:

• Work 1 inc into the first stitch
• Work 2 sc across the middle stitches
• Work 1 inc into the last stitch
• Chain 1 and turn

Row 6:

• Work 1 sc into each stitch across
• Chain 1 and turn

Row 7:

• Work 1 inc into the first stitch
• Work 4 sc across the middle stitches
• Work 1 inc into the last stitch
• Chain 1 and turn

Row 8:

• Work 1 sc into each stitch across

Finishing individual triangles:

• For the red triangles: fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a medium tail for weaving in
• For the skin color triangles: do not cut the yarn — leave it attached and live on the hook, ready for the joining step

Joining each petal:

• Place one red triangle directly on top of one skin color triangle, with the triangles facing in opposite directions so their pointed tips point opposite ways and the working yarn loops from each layer line up along both side edges
• Using the skin color yarn still attached and live on the hook, chain 1 to begin the join
• Work single crochet down the full length of one side edge, inserting your hook through both layers together at every stitch — this seams the two triangles together along that side
• At the pointed peak of the triangle, work 1 sc, then chain 1, then 1 sc all into the same peak stitch — this turn-around creates a clean corner at the tip without bunching
• Continue working sc down the second side edge, catching both layers together all the way to the flat base
• At the base, drop the skin color loop from your hook — do not cut it — and pull the red yarn through the live loop to switch to red at the base
• Leave a medium tail of skin color yarn for sewing
• Using the red yarn now on the hook, work 1 sl st into every stitch across the full width of the flat base — 8 stitches — to join and close the bottom edge cleanly
• Fasten off the red yarn, leaving a long tail
• Make all 5 petals in this way

Assembly

Lay all completed pieces out before picking up the needle.

Red mouth disc:

• Position the red disc centered on the front face of the stuffed head, approximately where the head is widest
• Pin it flat against the head and check from the front that it sits perfectly centered — the Demogorgon has no eyes, so the mouth disc centering is the single reference point for the whole face
• Sew all the way around the outer edge of the disc using the long red tail, catching the head stitches on every pass

Face petals:

• Pin all 5 petals symmetrically around the perimeter of the red disc before sewing any of them — space them at equal intervals so they fan out evenly in all directions
• Check the placement from directly in front before sewing
• Sew each petal at its flat base edge using the long tail, attaching it to both the head fabric and the edge of the red disc
• For an extra detail, embroider small pointed white teeth onto the red inner surface of the disc or along the inner edges of the petals

Body to head:

• Align the body’s neck opening with the base of the head
• Check that the assembled piece balances over its center of gravity before sewing — the head is the heaviest component
• Sew all the way around the neck join using strong stitches, reinforcing the seam with a second pass

Arms:

• Attach both arms to the upper sides of the body just below the neck seam
• Position both arms at the same height and check from the front before sewing either one permanently
• Keep the popcorn thumb of each arm facing forward

Legs:

• Attach both legs to the base of the torso
• Before sewing, stand the assembled figure on a flat surface to check balance — the front foot decreases should face forward on both legs for a stable, standing posture

FAQ

Q: Can I make a larger version without rewriting the pattern? Yes — simply substitute a heavier yarn weight and a proportionally larger hook. A size 7 super bulky yarn on a 9.0 or 10.0 mm hook produces a dramatically oversized plush Demogorgon using the exact same round counts and stitch combinations. The finished size scales automatically with the yarn weight. Keep both body colors in the same weight so all pieces come out in the right proportions relative to each other.

Q: The BLO round on the leg looks different from the rounds above and below it. Is that correct? Yes — it should look slightly different. The back-loop-only round leaves the unused front loops exposed as a visible ridge running around the circumference of the foot, which is the whole point of working it. This ridge is what visually defines where the foot ends and the ankle begins, and it gives the Round 7 decreases a clean edge to work against. The difference in appearance is intentional and structural.

Q: I’m nervous about the petal joining technique. What if I go wrong? The petal join is entirely re-doable — if a join comes out messy or misaligned, simply pull out the joining stitches and try again. The two triangles remain intact after unjoining. The most common mistake is not catching both layers consistently throughout the side edges, which leaves sections of the seam open. Work slowly on the first petal, check after each side that both layers are joined all the way along, and the subsequent four petals will go faster. Making all ten triangles first before joining any of them also helps, as you can compare size and shape before committing to the assembly.