Crochet Unicorn Pattern Free Amigurumi Little Pony

Knot the mane densely or a crochet unicorn amigurumi shows white fabric through the gaps. A spiral horn worked with a twist rather than a smooth cone is what keeps it from reading as a party hat.

The horn is the only shaped piece on this crochet unicorn pattern free amigurumi Little Pony, and working it as a spiral rather than a smooth cone is what stops it looking like a party hat. Head, body, four legs, ears, and the horn work in the round, with the mane and tail added as cut lengths knotted through the fabric. White body against a multicoloured mane. Knot the mane densely, since sparse strands show the fabric underneath and ruin the effect.

Crochet Unicorn Amigurumi

Learning to crochet in the round is the skill that unlocks almost every amigurumi pattern ever written, and this rocking unicorn is a good project to build it on. The head is a simple sphere. The body grows straight out of the neck rather than being sewn on separately, which removes the most intimidating seam in amigurumi construction.

Even the first leg is worked as part of the body rather than as a separate tube. The techniques here — magic ring, continuous rounds, invisible decrease, chain-based leg openings — are the exact same skills you will use on every stuffed animal you make after this.

What Is This Pattern

This post covers Part 1 of the rocking unicorn: the head, body and first set of legs. Part 2 covers the second set of legs, the horn, ears, mane and tail. Because Part 2 was not available at time of writing, this post gives you everything in Part 1 in full detail and directs you to the original video for the rest. See the Pattern Note at the bottom for more on this.

Materials and Tools

• Light worsted weight yarn in white or cream for the main body
• Small amounts of yarn in pastel or metallic colours for the horn, mane and tail (used in Part 2)
• 3.0 mm or 3.5 mm crochet hook — match to your yarn weight for a tight, stuffing-hiding fabric
• Polyfill stuffing, enough to fill the head and body firmly
• Safety eyes in an appropriate size for the finished head, approximately 10 to 12 mm
• Yarn needle for closing and weaving
• Stitch marker

Finished size is approximately 8 to 10 cm for the head and body combined, before legs and decorative pieces, based on typical light worsted at a 3.0 to 3.5 mm hook. That is an estimate, not a measurement from the original pattern. Your tension will affect the result in both directions.

Pieces List (Part 1)

• Head and body: 1 piece, worked continuously — the body grows out of the head with no seam
• First leg set: 1 pair of front legs, worked as part of the body in the same continuous piece

These are the only pieces covered in this post. Horn, ears, second legs, mane and tail are in Part 2.

Beginner Technique Notes

Read this section before you start if any of the terms in the pattern are unfamiliar. These are the exact techniques you need, explained the way they work in this pattern specifically.

Magic Ring

A magic ring is an adjustable loop that lets you start in the round without leaving a hole at the centre. Make a loop with your yarn so the tail end crosses over the working end. Insert your hook through the loop from front to back, catch the working yarn and pull up a loop, then chain 1 to secure. Work your starting stitches into the ring itself, not into the chain. When they are all in, pull the tail end to close the ring tight. If it is not closing, you have caught the wrong strand. The ring should disappear completely when pulled.

Continuous Rounds

This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral. You do not chain up at the end of a round or slip stitch to join. You just keep going. The only way to track where each round starts and ends is a stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of the current round at the start of each new round. Move it every single time. Skipping the marker for even two rounds makes it impossible to count where you are, and in a sphere it shows immediately.

Invisible Decrease

The invisible decrease is how you close a stuffed shape without visible ridges on the surface. Instead of inserting your hook into the next stitch normally, insert it through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the stitch after that. You now have two front loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops to complete the stitch. It pulls flatter than a standard decrease and leaves the outside of the fabric smooth.

Chain-Based Leg Opening

The leg in this pattern is not made separately and sewn on. Instead, a chain of stitches is used to bridge across part of the body round, creating an opening that becomes the top of the leg. You work down through the chain and back up the other side to form a tube. It sounds unusual the first time but is straightforward once you understand that the chain is a substitute for a section of body stitches, not an addition on top of them.

The Pattern

Head

• Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 7 SC into it. Pull the ring tight. (7 stitches) Checkpoint: a tiny flat circle with 7 stitches sitting around the edge. If you can count 6 or 8, pull back and recount from the ring.
• Round 2: Work 1 increase in every stitch around. (13 stitches) Note: 7 increases from 7 stitches gives 14 in a standard increase round. The source states 13. Work increases all the way around and count your stitches before moving on. See the Pattern Note.
• Round 3: Work 1 increase, then 1 SC. Repeat around. (20 stitches) Checkpoint: the piece should still sit mostly flat, like a small coin beginning to curl at the edges.
• Round 4: Work 4 SC, then 1 increase in the 5th stitch. Repeat around. (24 stitches)
• Rounds 5 to 11: SC around for 7 rounds. (24 stitches per round) Checkpoint: by Round 11 the head should be a full, closed-looking sphere with the opening at the back still accessible. It should sit on a table without tipping.

• Round 12: Work invisible decreases all the way around until you have 12 stitches. (12 stitches) Stop here and stuff the head firmly with polyfill before the opening gets too small. Pack it in fully — a soft head will show dents after the neck is worked.
• Round 13: Work 3 consecutive decreases, then 7 SC. (12 stitches) Checkpoint: the back of the head should be pulling in now, forming the beginning of the neck. The front should still be round and full.
• Round 14: Work 2 consecutive decreases, then 6 SC. (10 stitches)
• Round 15: SC around. (10 stitches)

Safety Eye Timing

Insert the safety eyes before Round 12, while the head is still open and you can get your hand inside to push the backings on firmly. Positioning: place them in the straight section around Rounds 7 to 8, spaced to suit the face. Hold them in place without the backings first and look at the face from arm’s length before committing. Once the backings are on, they will not come off cleanly. For any unicorn going to a child under three, leave the safety eyes out and embroider the eyes instead in black yarn using satin stitches worked in a small firm circle at the same position.

Transition to Body

• Chain extension: From the end of Round 15, chain 9. (9 chains)
• Working the chain: Crochet 8 SC back along the chain toward the neck. (8 stitches)
• Neck join: Join back to the neck with 1 SC, then continue working around the neck for 9 SC total around the neck opening. (9 stitches on the neck)
• Back of chain: Work 8 SC down the remaining loops of the original chain toward the tip. (8 stitches)

• Tip increase: Work 1 increase at the tip. (2 stitches from 1)
• Return: Work 7 SC back along the chain, then continue around the neck to close the body base. (26 stitches total) Checkpoint: the body base should be an oval tube sitting below the head, narrower at the neck end and slightly wider at the tip. Hold the piece up — the head should sit at one end, the body extending away from it in a clear perpendicular direction.
• Body rounds: SC around for 6 rounds. (26 stitches per round) Checkpoint: a straight barrel sitting below and behind the head, long enough to suggest a horse body in miniature.

First Leg Set

• Leg opening: Work 3 SC into the body, then chain 2.
• Skip ahead in the round and count back 7 stitches. Insert your hook into the 8th stitch and join with a slip stitch. (The 7th stitch is the centre of the leg opening.)
• Turn and work 7 SC back toward the chain. (7 stitches)
• Work 2 SC inside the chain space. (9 stitches total for the leg round) Checkpoint: you should have a small oval of stitches forming the top of the leg, 9 stitches around. If the count is off, the chain space or the skip count went wrong — it is easier to pull back now than after 3 rounds of leg.
• Leg length: Work 3 rounds of 9 SC. (9 stitches per round)
• Closing: Flatten the leg opening and sew the edges together through the closest loops on each side to close the hoof end.

Pattern Note

• Two things to flag clearly.
• Round 2 of the head asks for increases in every stitch from 7, which should give 14. The source states 13. These two numbers cannot both be correct. If you work standard increases all the way around you will land on 14. Round 3 then uses the formula 1 increase, 1 SC repeated around — from 14 stitches that gives 21, not 20 as stated. From 13 stitches it gives 19 or 20 depending on where you stop. Count your stitches carefully after Round 2 and adjust Round 3 as needed to arrive at 24 by Round 4. The overall head shape is a standard 24-stitch sphere, which is the goal regardless of the exact path there.
• This post covers Part 1 of a two-part tutorial. The second set of legs, the horn, ears, mane and tail are not included here because Part 2 was not available at time of writing. The pattern is complete and usable as given — the head, body and first legs are fully worked — but the unicorn is not finished without Part 2. Follow the original video for the remaining pieces.

Assembly

• Because the head and body are one piece, there is no head-to-body seam. The assembly that remains for Part 1 is the leg closing and stuffing. After the first leg set is closed, begin stuffing the body through whatever opening remains before you continue to Part 2’s leg set. Pack the body firmly, pushing fibrefill into the neck area around the transition chain, which is the part most likely to collapse without support.
• When Part 2 is complete, pin every separate piece before sewing — horn, ears, and any tail or mane sections. Pinned pieces can be repositioned in seconds. Sewn ones cannot. Step back and look at the whole unicorn from the front and both sides before threading a needle on any piece.

Stuffing Guide

The head needs firm stuffing, done at Round 12 before the opening closes. Fill it until it feels solid when gently pressed. A squishy head that dents and holds the shape of your thumb has not been stuffed enough. The body is also stuffed firmly, going in through the body opening as Part 2 progresses. Firm stuffing is what makes the legs able to carry the weight of the piece when it is positioned as a rocking ornament. The legs themselves stay flat and unstuffed — they close at the hoof end by sewing the edges together with no filling inside.

FAQ

• I have never made a magic ring before. What if mine keeps coming undone? Leave a longer tail, roughly 10 cm, and hold it against the ring as you work the first few stitches. Once 3 or 4 stitches are in, the ring is stable. After you close it, weave the tail end in immediately rather than leaving it loose.
• My stitch count after Round 2 is 14, not 13. Which is right? Fourteen is what standard increases produce from 7. The pattern states 13. Work the increases all around and count what you have, then adjust in Round 3 to land on 24 by Round 4. The finished head shape is what matters most.
• The chain extension for the body looks crooked. Did I do it wrong? It often looks odd at this stage. Work through to the end of the 6 body rounds before judging it. The barrel of the body straightens the whole structure once it has length, and the neck-to-body join settles into position after stuffing. If it is still visibly twisted after the body rounds, the neck join went into the wrong stitches — count 9 around the neck opening rather than working into a single point.
• When do I stuff the body? Stuff the head at Round 12 as stated. Stuff the body as Part 2 progresses, while the opening is still wide enough to work fibrefill inside. Do not leave it until the end.
• Can I use this as a Christmas ornament if it is a rocking unicorn? Yes. Leave a long loop of matching yarn coming out of the back before you close the body, knotted securely inside, and use it as a hanging loop. The rocking base described in the original tutorial can simply be omitted if the piece will hang rather than sit.