Crochet Amigurumi Mushroom Free Pattern – Miniature Two-Piece Mushroom

Crochet Amigurumi Mushroom

Mushroom amigurumi patterns tend to be beginner friendly by nature, and this crochet mushroom amigurumi is no exception. The stem and cap are worked separately then joined, making it easy to manage the color change and get clean edges between the cream base and the warm brown top. Both pieces stay small enough to finish in a single sitting, which makes this pattern a practical choice when you want a quick project that still has a polished result. The rounded cap shape crochets up neatly in continuous rounds, and the finished piece holds its form well once stuffed and closed.

Materials

Yarn: YarnArt Jeans or any similar sport-weight yarn in two colors — a light color for the stem and under-cap, a brighter color for the cap

Hook: 1.6 mm

Other supplies: Fiberfill stuffing, scissors, yarn needle

Abbreviations

• MR — Magic ring
• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
• dec — Decrease (2 stitches worked together)
• sl st — Slip stitch
• ch — Chain
• FLO — Front loops only

Yarn Note

The 1.6 mm hook with sport-weight yarn produces a genuinely tiny, dense mushroom — the kind that could sit on a keychain or nestle in a pocket. Switching to DK weight on a 3.0 mm hook produces a larger version with the same construction. Worsted on a 4.0 mm hook gives you a palm-sized piece. Whatever you choose, keep both yarn colors in the same weight so the joined edge of the cap and stem sits flush rather than puckering. The tight gauge is also what keeps the fiberfill from showing through — if you size up, don’t loosen the gauge significantly.

The Pattern

Part 1 — Stem and Under-Cap

Use light color yarn. Each round in this section ends with a slip stitch into the first stitch of the round and a chain 1 to begin the next round. This is joined-round construction — different from a continuous spiral.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 8 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly
• Slip stitch into the first sc of the round, then chain 1

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each of the 8 stitches from Round 1
• Slip stitch to close the round, chain 1

Rounds 3 through 7:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• End each round with a slip stitch and chain 1
• Repeat this same even round a total of 5 times — these rounds build the main height of the stem

Round 8:

• Work 2 sc across the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 4 times around the round
• Slip stitch to close, chain 1
• This round narrows the stem slightly to create the neck indentation below the cap

Round 9:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Slip stitch to close, chain 1

Round 10 — FLO Flare:

• Work this entire round into the front loops only of every stitch — insert your hook under only the front loop, not both loops
• Work the combination of 1 inc followed by 1 sc a total of 6 times around
• Slip stitch to close, chain 1
• Working FLO leaves the back loops of Round 9 exposed as a visible ridge and causes the fabric to flare outward — this flange is what the cap piece will lock onto during assembly

Round 11:

• Work the combination of 2 sc followed by 1 inc all the way around the round
• Slip stitch to close
• Fasten off and cut the yarn

Stuff the stem firmly with fiberfill now — pack the bottom heavily so the finished mushroom sits upright on its own. Add stuffing in small pinched pieces rather than one clump, filling the base first and working upward. Set the stuffed stem aside.

Part 2 — Main Cap

Use cap color yarn. Same joined-round construction — end each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly
• Slip stitch to the first stitch, chain 1

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 6 increases total
• Slip stitch to close, chain 1

Round 3:

• Work the combination of 1 inc followed by 1 sc a total of 6 times around
• Slip stitch to close, chain 1

Round 4:

• Work the combination of 2 sc followed by 1 inc a total of 6 times around
• Slip stitch to close, chain 1

Rounds 5 through 8:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• End each round with a slip stitch and chain 1
• Repeat this same even round a total of 4 times
• Do not fasten off at the end of Round 8 — leave the working yarn live on the hook and the cap piece open at the base

If adding safety eyes: insert them between Rounds 6 and 7 of the cap now, while the piece is still open. Leave approximately 4 stitches of space between them. Mark both positions with scrap yarn, check symmetry from the front, and press the locking washers firmly all the way down the posts before continuing. If embroidering facial details, work them now before joining.

Assembly and Finishing

Align the pieces:

• Place the finished, stuffed stem piece inside the opening of the cap piece — the under-cap flange from Round 10 of the stem should align with the open base edge of the cap
• Line up the outer stitches of both pieces as closely as possible before beginning to join
• Hold them firmly together so neither piece shifts or twists as you work

Join the pieces:

• With the cap yarn still live on the hook, insert your hook through a stitch on the cap edge and the corresponding stitch on the stem’s under-cap flange simultaneously
• Work single crochet all the way around the join, catching one stitch from each piece on every pass
• Match each stitch on the cap edge with its counterpart on the stem flange — a mismatched pair will cause the seam to twist or gap

Stuff the cap:

• When only a small opening remains before the join is complete, pause and push extra fiberfill into the cap through that opening to give it a firm, domed shape
• Avoid stuffing earlier — fiberfill fibers caught in the working hook while crocheting the join is avoidable by waiting until this point

Close and finish:

• Complete the remaining single crochet stitches to close the join fully
• Slip stitch into the first joining stitch to close the round
• Fasten off, leaving a tail of approximately 15 cm
• Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and pull it through the body of the mushroom in several directions before trimming — this prevents the end from slipping out during use
• Roll the finished mushroom gently between your palms to redistribute the fiberfill evenly and smooth out any lumps

Notes on the Joined-Round Method

This pattern uses a slip-stitch joined round with chain 1 rather than the continuous spiral most amigurumi use. The difference: each round has a clear start and end, and the chain 1 brings the yarn up to the correct height for the next round. Work the chain 1 as tightly as possible — a loose chain 1 creates a visible gap at the round join that runs as a visible seam down the finished piece. If you notice a gap forming, it is worth undoing back to the chain and redoing it more firmly before continuing.

FAQ

Q: Can I substitute a different yarn weight and keep the same hook? Changing yarn weight without changing hook size will give you a very different result — sport weight on 1.6 mm is intentionally tight. If you want a larger mushroom, change both the yarn and the hook together: DK on 3.0 mm or worsted on 4.0 mm both preserve the fabric density while scaling up the finished size. The round counts stay identical.

Q: The FLO round looks different from the rounds above it. Is that correct? Yes, intentionally so. Working into the front loops only in Round 10 leaves the unused back loops as a visible ridge and causes the fabric to flare outward — that flare is the under-cap flange that the main cap piece locks onto during assembly. If the round looks identical to the surrounding rounds, check that you are genuinely inserting the hook under only one loop rather than both.

Q: Can I add a face without safety eyes? Embroidered eyes in black yarn work well on this scale — work small satin stitch circles using a single strand of fine black thread or yarn, positioning them between Rounds 6 and 7 of the cap before assembly. For embroidered features, it is easier to work them on the cap piece before joining rather than trying to embroider on a fully assembled piece. A tiny curved smile worked in the same thread below the eyes completes the expression.