Crochet Christmas Witch Hat Pattern For Beginners

Swapping black for red and green moves a crochet christmas witch hat across seasons without changing a single round. Beginners get through the whole thing on single crochet, and it sits on a doll or hangs from a branch.

Red and green rather than black is the only thing separating this crochet christmas witch hat pattern for beginners from a Halloween one, and the shape does the rest. The cone works in the round with steady decreases to the point, then the brim flares flat from the base across a few wide rounds. Nothing past single crochet appears in it. Keep your tension tight or the point droops forward instead of standing.

Crochet Christmas Witch

Pointed hats are one of the kindest places to start in amigurumi, because a cone forgives almost everything a beginner does wrong. Your tension can wander. Your increases can sit a stitch off. The shape still reads as a hat. That makes this a good project for a first or second make, especially if you have already worked a magic ring once and want somewhere low pressure to practise it again. Worked in Christmas red and green instead of the usual black, it turns into a holiday piece for a doll, a tree, or a gift topper. The whole thing is one continuous spiral from tip to brim.

Pattern Note Before You Start

Two things worth flagging in plain language. First, the source this pattern came from is a video whose captions carry only background sound, so there is no verbatim round by round transcript behind it. What follows is the construction method for that hat, written honestly as a method: the stitch types, the order, and the shaping logic are all real, but specific round numbers and stitch counts were never stated in the source, so none have been invented here. Second, the item was labelled a Christmas witch, while the pattern itself covers the hat only. There is no doll, no body, and no face included.

What This Means for You

You will be counting rather than following numbers. That sounds harder than it is, and for a cone it genuinely is not. You work increases at a steady rhythm, you check the width against whatever head the hat is going on, and you stop when it fits. Beginners often find this easier than a strict written pattern, because there is nothing to fall behind on. If you want a fixed stitch count to follow, note down your own numbers as you go and you will have a repeatable pattern of your own by the end.

Quick Facts

• Skill level: beginner, assuming you can work a single crochet and a magic ring
• Pieces: one
• Approximate time: two to three hours at a relaxed pace, though this is an estimate rather than a figure from the pattern
• Finished size: depends entirely on the head it is made for, since the cone is sized by measuring rather than by round count
• Construction: worked in continuous spiral rounds from the tip down

Materials and Tools

All of the following are sensible working estimates based on standard amigurumi practice, not measurements taken from the original pattern.

• Sport, DK, or worsted weight yarn in your chosen colours, with red and green being the usual Christmas pairing and black with orange the Halloween one
• A crochet hook sized for your yarn, commonly somewhere between 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm for the tighter tension amigurumi wants
• Stitch markers, at least one
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors
• Optional craft wire or pipe cleaners, if you want to shape the brim or curl the tip

A quick word on hook size. Go smaller than the yarn label suggests. Amigurumi fabric should feel dense and slightly stiff, because a loose fabric on a hat this small collapses instead of holding its point.

Pieces List

• Crown and brim: 1, worked as a single continuous piece from the tip of the cone straight through to the outer edge of the brim

There is nothing to sew together here, which is part of why it suits beginners. The hat comes off your hook finished apart from the ends.

Beginner Technique Notes

The Magic Ring

• Wrap the yarn around two fingers to make a loop with the tail crossing behind it
• Draw a loop through the ring with your hook and chain one to secure it
• Work your starting single crochets over both strands of the ring
• Pull the tail firmly to close the hole once all starting stitches are in
• If the ring defeats you, chain two and work your starting stitches into the second chain from the hook instead, then tighten the gap later with the tail

Continuous Rounds

• You are not joining each round with a slip stitch here
• After the last stitch of a round you simply work into the first stitch of the next one and keep spiralling
• This is what stops a visible seam line running up the cone
• The trade off is that you lose your place easily, which is what the marker is for

Never made an amigurumi before? The video tutorial below is the perfect starting point, and the written pattern is right here whenever you’re ready!

 

Marking the Round

• Put a marker in the first stitch of each new round
• Move it up as you begin the next round
• A scrap of contrast yarn works as well as a plastic marker and slides out cleanly at the end
• If you lose track, count stitches around from the last marker you trust rather than guessing

Increases and Invisible Decreases

• An increase is two single crochets worked into one stitch
• Spacing increases evenly around the round is what keeps the cone circular instead of hexagonal
• An invisible decrease means inserting your hook into the front loop only of the next two stitches, then yarning over and pulling through all loops
• This hat is built almost entirely on increases, so the decrease is there for shaping the tip if you choose to taper it

The Pattern

Work in continuous spiral rounds throughout. Move your marker at the start of every round.

Phase One: The Tip and Cone

• Start with a magic ring
• Work roughly four to six single crochets into the ring, then pull the tail tight to close it
• Continue in continuous spirals from here, keeping a marker in the first stitch of each round
• Alternate plain single crochet rounds with increase rounds, spacing the increases evenly around so the cone widens gradually. Checkpoint: after the first few rounds the piece should look like a small firm cap with no gap at the point, not a flat circle
• Keep the increases spread out rather than clustered, since increases stacked in the same place will push a ridge into one side of the cone
• Repeat this pattern of plain rounds and evenly spaced increase rounds until the cone reaches the height you want. Checkpoint: partway through, the piece should stand up on its own when set point up, with straight sides rather than a bell curve
• For a slumped or curved tip, work several rounds straight with no increases at all, or feed a length of craft wire up inside the cone as you go

Phase Two: Transition to the Base

• Measure the base of the cone against the head it is going on, whether that is an amigurumi doll head or a real one
• Keep working until the base opening matches that circumference
• Once it matches, work one final round of single crochet all the way around with no increases at all. Checkpoint: the cone should now sit over the head without stretching or sliding down, and the last plain round should give you a clean line where the crown ends

Phase Three: The Brim

• Begin the brim immediately after that final crown round, with no fastening off in between
• Increase more frequently now so the fabric flares outward instead of continuing down
• A common rhythm is one single crochet, then two single crochets in the next stitch, repeated around
• Increasing every second or third stitch also works, with the tighter spacing giving you a wider and more ruffled brim. Checkpoint: after this first brim round the edge should already be pushing outward and refusing to sit flat against the crown
• Continue in concentric rounds for another two to four rounds
• Space the increases evenly in each round so the brim lies flat rather than cupping upward. Checkpoint: set the hat down on a table. A well increased brim sits still. If it rocks or cups, your increases are too few, and if it waves like a lettuce leaf you have added too many
• Reduce the number of increases in a round if the brim starts to ruffle, unless a wavy brim is what you are after

Finishing

• Work a slip stitch into the final stitch to close the round neatly
• Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a short tail
• Weave in all loose ends securely with your yarn needle
• Weave the tail along the underside of the brim rather than through the top face, since brim stitches are wide and a tail worked across the top will show

Stuffing Guide

This hat is mostly hollow by design, since it needs to sit over a head. Do not stuff the body of the cone. The one exception is the tip. If your point looks soft or folds over when you do not want it to, push a very small amount of fibrefill into the top two or three centimetres only, using the blunt end of your hook. Keep it light. Over-stuffing the tip shows immediately, because the stitches spread and the point goes fat and rounded instead of sharp. Wire is the better fix if you want a firm curled tip.

Assembly and Fitting

There is only one piece, so assembly here means fitting rather than sewing. Set the hat on the doll head first and look at it from the front before you commit to anything. If you want it secured, pin it in place with two or three pins, check that the brim sits level from every angle, then sew through the underside of the brim into the head with small whip stitches in matching yarn. Sew only through the brim, never through the crown, or you will pull the cone out of shape. For a hat meant to be taken off, leave it unsewn.

Toy Safety

• This pattern uses no safety eyes, so there is no eye placement round to worry about
• If you are making a full doll to wear the hat, safety eyes must go in before the head is closed and stuffed, since the backs are unreachable once the piece is sewn shut
• For any toy going to a child under three, skip safety eyes entirely and embroider the eyes with black yarn instead
• Do not use craft wire or pipe cleaners in a hat for a small child, because the ends work their way through stitches over time
• Sew the hat down permanently for a young child rather than leaving it removable

Troubleshooting

1. The cone is turning out hexagonal instead of round. Your increases are stacking in the same columns. Shift the starting point of your increases by a stitch or two each round to break up the lines.
2. There is a hole at the very tip. The magic ring loosened while you worked the first round. Pull the tail again now, and if it will not close, thread the tail and stitch across the gap from the inside.
3. The brim cups upward like a bowl. Not enough increases. Add another increase round with more frequent increases and it will relax.
4. The brim ruffles too much. Too many increases, too fast. Pull back a round and space them further apart.
5. You have lost your place in the spiral. Find the last marked stitch, count forward from there, and reset the marker rather than trying to eyeball where the round began.
6. The fabric is loose and stuffing or the doll head shows through. Drop a hook size and start again. This is the single most common beginner issue and no amount of shaping will fix it later.

Yarn Substitution and Size Scaling

Any yarn works as long as the hook is small enough to give you a dense fabric. Sport weight makes a hat for a small doll. Worsted with a 3.5 mm hook makes a chunky one that suits a larger amigurumi or a tree ornament. Because this pattern sizes by measuring rather than by counted rounds, scaling is easy. You just keep going until the base fits. For a human sized hat, expect to work considerably more increase rounds and to check the fit against your own head repeatedly, since a cone that fits at the forehead can still be tight at the back.

Colour and Customization Ideas

• Red crown with a white brim, for a Christmas hat that borrows from the obvious source
• Green with a gold or metallic brim edge
• Traditional black with an orange band worked as a single contrast round near the base of the crown
• Striped crown, changing colour every two or three rounds
• A tiny holly leaf and berry sewn where the crown meets the brim
• A star or bell stitched to the tip, which also weighs the point down for a natural droop
• Wire in the tip curled into a spiral for a storybook shape

FAQ

• Can I make this if I have never done a magic ring? Yes. Chain two, work your starting stitches into the second chain from the hook, and carry on exactly as written. You will have a small hole at the tip that you can close with the tail afterwards, and nobody will see it once the hat is on a head.
• How do I know when to stop increasing on the cone? Hold the base of the cone against the head it is for. When the opening reaches all the way around without stretching, you are done. That is the whole test.
• Why does my hat look nothing like the picture halfway through? Because a cone in progress looks like a thimble, then a party hat, then a witch hat, and only the last of those looks right. Keep going. The brim is what makes it read as a hat.
• What does working in continuous rounds actually mean? You never join the round. You finish the last stitch and go straight into the first stitch of the next round, spiralling round and round. The marker is the only thing telling you where a round starts.
• My stitch count keeps drifting. Is the hat ruined? Almost certainly not. A stitch gained or lost in a cone this shape is invisible once it is worn. Only fix it if the piece is visibly leaning to one side.