Crochet Mouse Plush Free Pattern – No-Sew Mouse Amigurumi

Crochet mouse plush free pattern worked with no sewing at all, head and body made in one continuous piece. The ears are picked up and crocheted directly into the body stitches rather than made flat and attached later, which is where most amigurumi mice lose their shape. Add a chain tail at the back and the mouse is finished off the hook.

Velvet chenille yarn gives this crochet plush mouse a texture that sits closer to a manufactured stuffed toy than a typical amigurumi. The finished figure crouches low with all four pink paws flat, a posture that adds a kind of realism the standard upright amigurumi silhouette does not have, and the large black eyes with white highlight circles give the face a dramatically expressive quality for such a small project.

Plush Crochet Mouse

Yarn:

• Blanket or plush yarn in your Body Color — grey is the classic read, but any color works
• Accent Color in the same weight — pink reads as the most mouse-like choice for the nose, feet, and tail
• Scrap black yarn and white or cream yarn — for embroidering the eyes (or use plastic safety eyes instead)

Hook: 6.0 mm, or whichever size matches your chosen yarn

Other supplies:

• Stitch marker
• Scissors
• Yarn needle
• Polyfill stuffing

Abbreviations

• MR — Magic ring
• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
• dec — Decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
• dc inc — Double crochet increase (2 dc into the same stitch)
• sl st — Slip stitch
• st — Stitch

Technique Notes — With Tips Built In

• Magic ring: Every piece opens with a magic ring. Wrap the yarn around your fingers to form a loop, insert your hook through the center, pull up a working strand, chain 1 to secure. Work the first-round stitches into the center of the ring, then pull the tail to close the hole completely. On plush or blanket yarn the stitches are harder to see than on smooth yarn — a stitch marker from the first stitch of every round is not optional here, it is the only reliable way to count rounds correctly. Move it up without exception at the start of each new round.
• Color changes: This pattern switches between Body Color and Accent Color at specific points — the nose start, the feet, and the tail transition. Every color change happens on the final yarn-over of the stitch just before the switch. Work the stitch normally until 2 loops remain on your hook, then draw the new color through those 2 loops to complete the stitch in the new yarn. Pulling both the working strand and the new color’s tail firmly at this moment locks the join and prevents a loose loop at the color boundary. Switching on the final loop rather than mid-stitch is what keeps the transitions clean.
• The bobble stitch feet: Each foot is a 4 triple crochet bobble stitch worked in Accent Color and finished back in Body Color. To make the bobble: yarn over twice, insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice — one unfinished triple crochet made. Repeat this 3 more times into the same stitch so you have 5 loops on your hook from 4 unfinished stitches. Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops at once to close the bobble. The bobble puffs outward on the right side — this is the foot. Practice making one or two on scrap yarn before working them into the mouse so the motion feels comfortable at speed.
• Stuffing timing and density: The nose needs firm support early — knot the interior yarn tails before adding any stuffing so they don’t become impossible to reach later. The head should be stuffed firmly to maintain its round shape. Round 15 is your last comfortable opportunity to stuff the head and front body section before the closing rounds narrow the opening. After Round 15, stuff the remaining body section before Round 16 further reduces access. Add polyfill in small portions and smooth the stuffing between additions — small amounts distribute evenly while large clumps create lumps that show through on plush yarn.
• Eye placement: Safety eyes go in between Rounds 4 and 5 — mark both positions with scrap yarn, check the spacing from the front (wider reads as softer and more expressive), and lock the washers before continuing past Round 7. If you are embroidering the eyes instead, that step happens after the mouse is fully assembled and closed, giving you a firm surface to stitch against. For the embroidered version, build each eye by passing the needle repeatedly through a 2-stitch gap to create a filled black circle, then add a small white or cream backstitch highlight on the outer edge of each eye for brightness.
• Ear attachment: The ears attach during Round 7 by crocheting through both the ear stitches and the head stitches simultaneously — no sewing required. Position both ears against the head before beginning Round 7 and check that they sit evenly spaced from the front. Check symmetry once more after the 3-sc attachment stitches of the first ear before moving to the second. Pulling the ear yarn tails through to the inside of the head and knotting them securely immediately after Round 7 keeps them locked in place for the rest of construction.

The Pattern

Ears (Make 2 Before Starting the Body)

Make both ears first and set them aside. Use Body Color yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Still getting the hang of reading crochet patterns? That’s completely okay, the video tutorial below breaks everything down in a simple, beginner-friendly way!

Ear shaping loop:

• Work 1 sc into the next stitch
• Work 1 inc into each of the next 3 stitches — 2 sc into each of those 3 stitches in succession
• Work 1 dc inc into each of the next 3 stitches — 2 dc into each of those 3 stitches in succession
• Work 1 sc into each of the next 3 stitches
• Work 1 sl st into the following stitch
• Fasten off and leave the yarn tails attached — do not trim them
• The tails serve a function in attachment and securing during Round 7
• Make the second ear in exactly the same way and set both aside

The Nose

Use Accent Color yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring in Accent Color
• Work 4 sc into the ring — on the very last yarn-over of the 4th sc, draw Body Color through to complete the stitch in the new color
• Pull the ring closed tightly
• The color change within Round 1 creates the smooth transition from accent-colored nose tip to body-colored snout

Round 2:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of twice around the round

Push the nose outward so it points away from the work — this shapes the snout. Knot the interior yarn tails now while the piece is still open and accessible.

Round 3:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each stitch, all the way around the round

The Head

Continue with Body Color from the nose. Do not fasten off.

Round 4:

• Work 3 sc
• Work 1 inc into each of the next 6 stitches — 6 consecutive increases
• Work 3 sc into the remaining stitches to complete the round
• The cluster of increases at the front builds the rounded cheek area of the head while the straight sc stitches at the back keep the shape even

Round 5:

• Work 3 sc
• Work the combination of 1 sc followed by 1 inc a total of 6 times
• Work 3 sc into the remaining stitches to complete the round

Round 6:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases

If using safety eyes, place them now between Rounds 4 and 5 — mark both positions, check spacing from the front, and lock the washers before continuing.

 

Attaching the Ears — Round 7

Round 7:

• Work 9 sc

Attach first ear:

• Hold the first ear flat against the head at the position where you want it to sit
• Insert your hook through 3 stitches on the ear and the corresponding 3 stitches on the head at the same time — passing through both layers simultaneously
• Work 3 sc through both layers together — this locks the ear directly into the head round
• Work 3 sc along the head between the two ear positions

Attach second ear:

• Hold the second ear in position on the opposite side, checking symmetry from the front before stitching
• Insert your hook through 3 stitches on the second ear and the corresponding 3 head stitches together
• Work 3 sc through both layers to attach
• Work 6 sc to complete the round

Immediately pull the ear yarn tails through to the inside of the head and knot them securely. If using safety eyes and have not placed them yet, insert them now through the opening before it narrows.

Head Reduction

Round 8:

• Work 2 sc, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 6 times around the round

Body Expansion

Round 9:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 9 times around the round

Round 10:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes

The Front Feet

Round 11:

• Work 1 sc — on the last yarn-over of this stitch, draw Accent Color through to switch colors

First foot:

• Work a 4 triple crochet bobble stitch in Accent Color:
  • Yarn over twice, insert hook into the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 more loops — 1 unfinished triple crochet made
  • Repeat this 3 more times into the same stitch so you have 5 loops on your hook from 4 unfinished stitches
  • On the final close — yarn over and pull through all 5 loops — draw Body Color through to finish the bobble in Body Color
  • The bobble puffs outward as the foot
• Work 3 sc across the chest

Second foot:

• Work 1 sc — switching to Accent Color on the last yarn-over of the previous stitch
• Work the 4 triple crochet bobble in Accent Color, finishing the final close in Body Color as before
• Work 21 sc to finish the round

Body Section

Rounds 12, 13, and 14:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 3 times
• When working Round 12, crochet into the stitch directly above each foot bobble — do not skip those stitches

The Back Feet

Round 15:

• Work 2 sc — switching to Accent Color on the last yarn-over of the second sc

Third foot:

• Work the 4 triple crochet bobble in Accent Color, finishing the final close in Body Color
• Work 3 sc

Fourth foot:

• Work the 4 triple crochet bobble in Accent Color, finishing the final close in Body Color
• Work 20 sc to complete the round

Stop here and stuff the head and front body section firmly with polyfill before continuing — this is the last comfortable access point before the closing rounds narrow the opening.

Closing the Body

Round 16:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 9 times around the round

Stuff the rest of the body now, before the opening narrows further.

Round 17:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 18:

• Work 6 consecutive decreases — one after the other, all the way around
• On the very last yarn-over of the 6th decrease, draw Accent Color through to switch colors for the tail

The Tail

Continue in Accent Color directly from Round 18 — no fastening off.

Round 19:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of twice around the round
• You now have 4 stitches — the tail tube begins here

Rounds 20 through 29:

• Work 1 sc into each of the 4 stitches around
• Repeat this same even round a total of 10 times to form the full-length tail tube

Finishing the tail:

• Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of approximately 10 cm
• Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and sew the open tip of the tail closed with a few firm stitches
• Weave the remaining yarn end backward through the tail tube and into the body interior to hide it completely

Eye Embroidery — If Not Using Safety Eyes

Work after the mouse is fully assembled and closed.

Black yarn:

• Insert the needle from the bottom of the body and bring it up to the head at the first eye position between Rounds 4 and 5
• Pass the needle repeatedly through a 2-stitch gap, building up passes until the eye reads as a filled black circle
• Repeat for the second eye on the other side, checking that both sit at the same height

White or cream yarn:

• Backstitch a small highlight line on the outer edge of each black eye — just one or two stitches is enough to give the eye a bright, expressive look
• Knot all yarn ends firmly at the base of the mouse and tuck them inside the body using the tip of your hook

Customization Ideas

• Color: Grey and pink is the classic mouse. Cream body with a light brown accent reads as a field mouse. All-white with pale pink is a white lab mouse. A brown body with darker brown accents gives a woodland mouse. The accent color appears only on the nose, feet, and tail — switching it dramatically changes the whole character without touching a single pattern row.
• Yarn weight: Blanket yarn on a 6.0 mm hook produces a large, squeezable plush mouse well-suited to a gift or nursery shelf. Moving down to DK weight on a 3.5 mm hook produces a smaller, denser version with finer detail definition. Keep both body and accent yarns in the same weight so the feet and tail sit flush.
• Expression: Eye spacing is the main expression tool here. Placing the safety eyes 4 stitches apart gives a wide, curious look; 6 stitches apart reads as softer and sleepier. For a more serious expression, position the eyes slightly lower on the face, just below the Round 4 expansion stitches.

FAQ

Q: The bobble feet keep sinking inward instead of poking out. What am I doing wrong? Bobbles face outward on the right side of the work, but only if the round is being worked from the outside of the piece — which is correct for continuous amigurumi rounds. If the bobble is sinking inward, you may be working from inside the piece. Check that the right side of your work faces outward as you work each round, and push each bobble firmly outward with your finger the moment you close it. On plush yarn they may need a little coaxing to stay prominent, but once the round is finished and the adjacent stitches are worked they typically hold their position.

Q: Can I make this without blanket yarn and a 6.0 mm hook? Yes — the construction is identical in any smooth or semi-smooth yarn. The finished size will be smaller and the stitch definition cleaner on a finer yarn with a smaller hook. Avoid very fuzzy or bouclé yarn because the ear attachment technique and bobble feet both rely on being able to see and count individual stitches clearly. A DK or worsted weight in a smooth acrylic is the most beginner-friendly substitute.

Q: Are safety eyes safe for a baby gift? Safety eyes with plastic locking washers are not recommended for children under three. For a baby version, embroider the eyes using black yarn as described in the Eye Embroidery section — the result is equally expressive and completely secure. For additional safety, double-check that all bobble feet stitches are tightly closed and that no yarn tails are left accessible. The no-sew construction of this pattern means there are fewer attachment points that can come loose, which makes it naturally better suited to younger children than patterns with multiple sewn pieces.