Crochet Poinsettia Flower Free Pattern With Red Petals Green Leaves And Yarn Stamens

Two layers of red petals stacked offset give this crochet poinsettia free pattern its depth, since a single layer always lies flat. Green leaves go underneath and short yarn stamens gather in the middle.

Twenty-six separate pieces go into one of these, and the assembly takes longer than the crochet. Worth knowing before you start. The construction is wire-supported rather than stuffed: each petal and leaf gets a length of 0.5 mm wire crocheted into its edge, which lets you bend it into any angle and hold it there.

Crochet Poinsettia Flower

The result sits or stands in a way that yarn-only flowers never quite manage. This pattern suits anyone already comfortable with working along a foundation chain on both sides and enclosing wire in a crochet edge.

Materials And Tools

• Acrylic yarn in red, dark green, yellow, and white
• 1.25 mm crochet hook for small petals and large petals
• 1.75 mm crochet hook for leaves
• 0.5 mm wire for petals and leaves
• Slightly thicker copper or silver wire, approximately 4 mm, for stems and flower centres
• Dark green floral tape
• Scissors and wire cutters
• Optional lighter or candle for shaping acrylic yarn tips into neat balls

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• half-tr: half-treble, as specified in the large petal and leaf section

Pieces List

• Small red petals, make 4, with 1.25 mm hook
• Large red petals, make 8, with 1.25 mm hook
• Dark green leaves, make 3 or 4, with 1.75 mm hook, same stitch sequence as large petals
• Stamens, make 10 to 14, wired and yarn-wrapped by hand

The Pattern

Pattern 1: Small Petals — Make 4

• Make a slip knot and ch 15 loosely
• Working into the 2nd ch from the hook: 1 sc
• Next st: 1 hdc
• Next st: 1 dc
• Next st: 2 dc into the same st
• Next st: 1 tr
• Next 2 sts: 1 tr in each [3 tr total in this section]

• Next st: 1 dc
• Next st: 2 dc into the same st
• Next 2 sts: 1 hdc in each
• Next 2 sts: 1 sc in each. Checkpoint: the first side should taper from narrow at the base up to a broad middle section, then narrow again before the tip. If it is running straight rather than curving, your tension on the taller stitches is too even — the trebles should push the edge outward distinctly.
• Tip: work 3 sc into the very last ch to turn the corner
• Second side, working back down: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc inc, 1 dc, 3 tr, 1 dc inc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc
• Sl st to the beginning ch. Checkpoint: laid flat, the petal should be a narrow pointed leaf shape with a visible widening through the treble section. Curling edges at this stage usually mean the foundation chain was pulled too tight.
• Wire edging: lay a length of 0.5 mm wire around the perimeter of the petal
• Join yarn with ch 1, then work sc all the way around the petal edge, enclosing the wire inside each stitch
• At the top tip, work sc, ch 3, sl st into the 1st ch, sc, all into the same middle stitch to create a sharp point
• Continue sc down the remaining side and sl st to close. Checkpoint: the wire should be completely hidden inside the edge stitches with no gaps. Any visible wire means the stitches were spaced too wide and the wire will catch on things.
• Leave a long yarn tail for wrapping around the wire stem later

If you’re new to crocheting toys, the video tutorial below shows you exactly what each round should look like, you’ve got this!

 

Pattern 2: Large Petals — Make 8, And Leaves — Make 3 Or 4

Large petals and leaves use the same stitch sequence. Change only the hook size and yarn colour: 1.25 mm and red for large petals, 1.75 mm and dark green for leaves.

• Make a slip knot and ch 21 loosely
• 2nd ch from hook: 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts [2 sc]
• Next 2 sts: 1 hdc in each [2 hdc]
• Next 8 sts: 1 dc in each [8 dc]
• Next 3 sts: 1 half-tr in each [3 half-tr, as specified in the original]

• Next 4 sts: 1 sc in each [4 sc]
• Tip: work 3 sc into the last st to turn the corner
• Second side, working back down: 4 sc, 3 half-tr, 8 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc
• Sl st to the beginning ch. Checkpoint: the first round should lie flat as a long narrow shape with a clear point at the tip. The half-treble section will be slightly harder to distinguish from the dc section by eye, which is normal.
• Second round: ch 1, then work 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc inc, 2 tr, 1 tr, 1 dc inc, 1 tr, 3 dc, 2 hdc, 3 sc up to the tip
• At the top tip: 3 sc into the same st
• Mirror the sequence down the other side, then sl st to join. Checkpoint: after the second round the petal or leaf should be noticeably wider than the first round, with the edges ruffling slightly before the wire goes in. That ruffle flattens out once the edging pulls the wire taut.
• Wire edging: insert the 0.5 mm wire around the loop
• Ch 1 and work sc all the way around, adding the point feature at the top tip as in the small petal: sc, ch 3, sl st, sc into the same stitch
• Sl st to close and leave a long yarn tail. Checkpoint: the wire-edged piece should hold whatever shape you bend it into without springing back. If it springs, the wire gauge is too light for the petal size.

Pattern 3: Stamens — Make 10 To 14

• Cut short lengths of the thicker wire for each stamen
• Wrap small amounts of red, yellow, or green yarn tightly around the top tip of each wire to form the head
• Twist the wire tightly underneath the yarn wrap to lock it in place
• Optional: pass each tip briefly near a candle or lighter flame to melt the acrylic slightly into a small rounded ball. Work quickly and keep the yarn moving so it does not scorch.
• Repeat until you have 10 to 14 individual stamens

Assembly

Work in order and the stem stays manageable. Bundle the stamens first and wrap their lower stems tightly with dark green floral tape, forming the flower centre. Add the four small petals next, arranged evenly around the cluster at the same height, and bind them down with more floral tape. Take the eight large petals and divide them into layers, positioning each layer staggered in the gaps between the pieces below, then tape them in turn. Tuck the leaves underneath the large petals facing outward, and finish by wrapping the full main stem down to the end. Once everything is taped, bend each petal and leaf individually into a natural open position.

Assembly goes faster if you work with the stem pointing up rather than down, since gravity holds each layer roughly in place while the tape goes on. The odd thing about these is that they look most convincing from about three feet away, so shape them for that distance rather than for close inspection.

Stuffing And Safety Eyes

Neither applies. This piece has no stuffed body and no face. Mentioned only because most patterns here require both. The wire inside each petal means this flower should not be given to a child to handle freely; wire ends inside the stem can work loose over time.

FAQ

• Do the petals hold their shape without stiffener? Yes, that is the whole point of the wire edging. You bend them once and they stay. No starch, no blocking, no mould.
• Can I use a different wire gauge? For the petals, 0.5 mm is the sweet spot. Lighter wire and the petals flop; heavier wire and the crochet stitches fight you going around curves. The thicker stem wire is more flexible in terms of gauge, since it just needs to hold the bundle upright.
• What if I do not want to use a flame on the stamen tips? Skip it. The yarn tips look fine left as is, and the flame step exists purely for aesthetics. A tight final wrap of yarn achieves a similar small round head without any heat.