Crochet Amigurumi Fawn Christmas Reindeer Pattern Free

Embroidered white spots across the back turn a crochet fawn pattern free into a fawn rather than a small deer. Thin legs need firm stuffing all the way up or the whole thing folds at the knee.

White spots across the back are what separate a fawn from a full-grown deer, and this crochet amigurumi fawn christmas reindeer pattern free puts them on as embroidery once the body is finished rather than working them into the fabric. The body is a rounded piece on four thin legs with a long neck, a slim head, and two upright ears. Tan throughout with a cream belly. Stuff the legs firmly, since thin legs on a stuffed body fold at the first joint.

Crochet Fawn Reindeer Amigurumi Christmas

A sitting reindeer worked in plush yarn, with branched horns made in a finer yarn on a smaller hook. The body and head are worked in one continuous piece, which cuts the seam count down considerably. This pattern suits anyone who has made a basic amigurumi before and wants a seasonal project that finishes in a day or two. The sculpting step at the end — threading a needle through the face to pull in the eye sockets and shape the muzzle — is what separates a flat plush face from one that actually reads as a deer, so don’t skip it.

Abbreviations

• MR — magic ring
• SC — single crochet
• CH — chain
• INC — increase, two SC worked into the same stitch
• DEC — decrease, two stitches worked together
• SL ST — slip stitch
• [ ] — repeat the bracketed sequence the stated number of times

Materials and Tools

• Plush or chenille yarn in brown for the main body, head, ears, arms, and legs, roughly 80 to 100 g
• Plush yarn in ivory for the muzzle, around 10 g
• Thin yarn in brown to match the body for the horns, a small amount, under 10 g
• Red yarn in a finer weight for the nose embroidery, a short length
• White yarn in a finer weight for the eye accent embroidery, a short length
• 4.0 mm crochet hook for all plush yarn pieces
• 1.9 mm crochet hook for the horns
• Two safety eyes
• Wide-eyed plastic yarn needle for plush yarn assembly
• Standard metal sewing needle for the horn and muzzle attachment
• Strong sculpting thread and a long needle for face shaping
• Fibrefill stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

Finished size is approximately 18 to 22 cm seated, which is a working estimate based on standard plush yarn gauge at 4.0 mm. Total working time is roughly four to six hours.

Pieces List

• Horns — make 2
• Ears — make 2
• Muzzle — make 1
• Arms — make 2
• Legs — make 2
• Body and head — worked as one continuous piece

Pattern Note

The safety eyes in this pattern are placed at round 8 of the head, after rounds 9 and 10 bring the opening smaller. The pattern states to insert the eyes between rounds 5 and 6 of the head, but the placement instruction appears at the round 8 to 10 section in the original video. Insert the eyes before working round 10, not after — once round 11 is closed the opening is too small to reach in and press the washers. This is flagged here so you do not lose the timing.

The Pattern

Horns (Make 2)

Tools for this piece: thin brown yarn and the 1.9 mm hook.

• Round 1: Work 6 SC into a MR. Pull the tail to close. [6]
• Rounds 2 to 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 2 rounds. [6]
• Branch: CH 3. Skip 1 chain, work 1 SC into the second chain from the hook, then 1 SC into the next chain.
• Resume main horn: Work 1 SC into each of the 6 stitches of the previous round, continuing on around. [6] By this point the horn should read clearly as a thin tube with a short fork growing off the side. If the branch is drooping instead of standing away from the tube, the chain tension is loose.
• Rounds 6 to 7: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 2 rounds. [6]
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Repeat for the second horn.

Ears (Make 2)

• Round 1: CH 2 or start from a MR. Work 6 SC into the first chain or ring. [6] The ear is one round only, so pull the tail tight and leave a sewing length.
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attachment. Repeat for the second ear.

Muzzle

• Round 1: CH 2 or start from a MR. Work 6 SC into the first chain or ring. [6]
• Round 2: 1 SC, 3 SC into the next stitch, 2 SC, 3 SC into the next stitch, 1 SC. [10] The muzzle should now read as a slight oval, wider across the middle than at either end. A perfect circle here means the three-into-one increases ran in the wrong positions.
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for attachment. Use the needle to connect the two open edges of the muzzle into a gentle cup shape before sewing it onto the face.

Arms (Make 2)

• Round 1: CH 2. Work 5 SC into the first chain. [5]
• Rounds 2 to 4: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 3 rounds. [5] The arm should be a short, even tube by the end of round 4, not tightening or flaring at either end. Plush yarn hides your stitches completely, so count every round.
• Closing: Fold the arm flat so 2 or 3 stitches sit on each side. Work 2 SC through both layers across the top to seal the arm closed. Fasten off and leave a tail. Repeat for the second arm.

Legs (Make 2)

• Round 1: CH 2. Work 6 SC into the first chain. [6]
• Rounds 2 to 3: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 2 rounds. [6] The leg is a compact stub at this point, and that is correct.
• For the first leg: fasten off and leave a tail. For the second leg: do not cut the yarn. Continue directly into the body join.

Body (Joined from Legs, Then Worked in the Round)

• Join: From the second leg, CH 3. Insert the hook into the first leg and SL ST to join. [The two legs are now connected by the chain bridge.]
• Round 1 of body: Work 6 SC around the first leg. Work 3 INC across the joining chain stitches, one into each chain. Work 6 SC around the second leg. Work 3 SC along the opposite side of the chain. [21]
• Round 2: 6 SC, [1 SC, INC] 3 times, 9 SC. [24] The body base should now look like a wide oval when viewed from above, with the legs still hanging loose beneath it.
• Rounds 3 to 4: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 2 rounds. [24]
• Round 5: [2 SC, DEC] 6 times. [18]
• Round 6: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. [18]

• Round 7: [1 SC, DEC] 6 times. [12] By round 7 the body should be clearly narrowing at the top, closing in toward the neck. If it still reads as a wide barrel, a decrease got missed in round 5.
• Round 8: 2 SC, attach the first arm by working 2 SC through both the arm edge and the next 2 body stitches simultaneously, 4 SC, attach the second arm the same way through the next 2 body stitches, 2 SC. [12]
• Stuff the body firmly with fibrefill before proceeding.
• Round 9: Work 6 DEC to close. [6] Add a small amount of extra stuffing through the remaining opening if the body feels soft at the top. Do not cut the yarn. Continue directly into the head.

Head (Continued from Body)

• Round 1: Work 6 INC. [12]
• Round 2: [1 SC, INC] 6 times. [18]
• Round 3: [2 SC, INC] 6 times. [24]
• Round 4: [3 SC, INC] 6 times. [30] By round 4 the head should already be doming convincingly, clearly wider than the body beneath it.
• Rounds 5 to 7: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 3 rounds. [30]
• Round 8: [3 SC, DEC] 6 times. [24]
• Round 9: [2 SC, DEC] 6 times. [18] This is the last easy moment to position the safety eyes. Insert them now, between rounds 5 and 6 of the head, leaving approximately 4 stitches of space between them. Press the washers firmly onto the posts from inside the head. Do this before round 10 — once the opening tightens further it becomes difficult to reach inside.
• Round 10: [1 SC, DEC] 6 times. [12]
• Stuff the head firmly. The head should feel solid without the yarn surface stretching or puckering at the stitch lines.
• Round 11: Work 6 DEC to close. [6] Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close, and weave the end inside.

Assembly

• Pin every piece before committing to a stitch. Plush yarn hides mistakes well but also makes unpicking genuinely miserable, so take the extra minute. Sew the arms to the sides of the body at the shoulder level, then move to the head. The horns go near the top centre, symmetrical across the midline, with the branch facing forward on each side. Ears sit immediately next to the horns, angled slightly outward. The ivory muzzle attaches to the lower front of the face, centred. Once the muzzle is down, use a long needle and strong sculpting thread to pull in the eye sockets and create the two shallow indentations on either side of the muzzle. That step takes five minutes and does more for the face than any embroidery.
• Embroider the red nose onto the muzzle centre with a few passes of the finer red yarn. Add simple brow stitches in brown above the eyes, and place small white yarn highlights just below or beside each eye to catch the light.

Stuffing Guide

Legs take no stuffing — they are too small and the open base gets joined into the body anyway. Arms stay lightly packed or empty; they are sewn shut flat and do not need volume. The body wants firm stuffing, particularly at the top, because the head weight sits directly above it and a soft body will lean. The head should also be firm. Plush yarn compresses a lot in the hand, so what feels overstuffed while you are working it usually settles to the right density once the closing round pulls everything in.

Toy Safety

Safety eyes are not suitable for toys going to children under three. For a young child, skip the safety eyes and embroider the eyes instead using several passes of black yarn built into a solid oval. The sculpting step still works with embroidered eyes — just pull gently. Check that all yarn ends are knotted inside and not just tucked, especially the horn tails, which are thin and work loose more easily than plush yarn ends do. The horns themselves are rigid enough to catch on things, so for a very young child sew them flat against the head or leave them off.

FAQ

• Can I use regular acrylic instead of plush yarn? Yes, and the stitch definition will actually be easier to follow. The finished deer will be smaller and firmer rather than soft and round. Go up a hook size to keep the fabric from being too dense.
• My plush yarn hides every stitch. How do I count? Feel for the V shapes with your fingertip rather than looking for them, and mark the start of each round with a stitch marker or a piece of contrasting yarn pulled through. Counting by feel is slower at first but becomes natural quickly.
• The body leans to one side when I attach the head. What happened? Usually the arms were attached unevenly in round 8, pulling the body slightly off axis. Pin the head straight before sewing and hold the whole piece at arm’s length to check the angle before the first stitch goes in.