Crochet Egg Bunny Pattern Free For Beginners – Beginner Amigurumi

Egg-shaped amigurumi bodies are an underused construction approach, and this crochet egg bunny makes the case for them clearly. The rounded oval base doubles as the body itself, with sideways floppy ears, closed lash-detailed eyes, and a small cluster of crocheted flowers on the head turning a simple shape into something that reads as a complete Easter decoration.

Crochet Egg Bunny Amigurumi

Why I love this one: the sleeping embroidered eyes. Two horizontal lines with three tiny lash strokes each, and the whole character reads as serene and sweet rather than wide-eyed and startled. It’s the detail that makes people pick it up.

Materials & Tools

Yarn: 100% cotton yarn — Drops Paris or any equivalent cotton yarn in your choice of color, plus a small amount of black cotton yarn for the embroidered face

Hook: 3.0 mm

Other supplies:

• Stitch marker
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Pins for face placement
• Hot glue gun (optional, for attaching paws) or sewing needle and thread

Abbreviations

• ch — Chain
• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
• dec — Invisible decrease (worked through the front loops only of 2 consecutive stitches)
• st — Stitch

Customization Ideas

Color: The egg body in a soft white or pale cream reads as the most Easter-appropriate version. Dusty lilac, sage green, or blush pink all produce a beautiful alternative. A speckled or variegated cotton yarn creates a surprise pattern across the egg body without any additional work. Make a set of three or four in different colors for an Easter basket arrangement that looks intentional.

Scale: Drops Paris on a 3.0 mm hook produces a compact, palm-sized bunny with crisp stitch definition. Moving up to a bulkier cotton on a 4.0 or 4.5 mm hook produces a larger, roomier version with the same proportions. Cotton is heavier than acrylic at the same weight, so scale up thoughtfully — a large cotton egg body is satisfying but hefty.

Facial expression: The sleeping eyes as written give a serene, eyes-closed expression. For open eyes, substitute two small French knots or satin-stitch ovals in black instead of the horizontal lines. Adding a tiny pink embroidered nose just below the eye line and a small curved mouth in the same thread gives the face even more personality without any additional pieces.

Ear options: The pattern gives upright, cupped ears. For floppy ears, work additional even rounds before tapering and do not add the cupping stitch during assembly — the extra length causes them to drape naturally. For shorter, rounder ears, reduce the even rounds in the middle section by two.

The Pattern

The Egg Body

Work in continuous rounds throughout. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each new round and move it up as you go — do not join at the end of each round.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Chain 1 — this chain counts as the first single crochet of the round
• Work 5 sc into the center of the ring
• Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch (the chain 1)
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 2 sc into every stitch all the way around — 1 inc into each stitch, 6 increases total

Round 3:

• Work 1 inc into the first stitch, then 1 sc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 inc followed by 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round

Round 4:

• Work 1 inc into every 3rd stitch around, working sc into all other stitches
• Continue this spacing all the way around the round

Round 5:

• Work 1 inc into every 4th stitch around, working sc into all other stitches
• Continue this spacing all the way around the round

Round 6:

• Work 1 inc into every 5th stitch around, working sc into all other stitches
• Continue this spacing all the way around the round

Rounds 7 through 14:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• Repeat this same even round a total of 8 times
• These 8 rounds build the straight middle section of the egg body — keep your tension consistent and count your stitches at the end of Round 7 before continuing to confirm the count is correct

Round 15:

• Work 1 invisible dec over the next 2 stitches — insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the stitch after it, yarn over and pull through both loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops to complete
• Work 1 sc into each of the next 10 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 invisible dec followed by 10 sc — a total of 3 times around the round

Round 16:

• Work 1 invisible dec over the next 2 stitches
• Work 1 sc into each of the next 9 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 dec followed by 9 sc — a total of 3 times around the round

Rounds 17 through 22:

• Continue the same system across each round — 3 decreases per round, with the number of sc between each decrease reducing by one each time
• Round 17 decreases every 9th stitch, Round 18 every 8th, continuing to reduce the spacing with each successive round through Round 22
• Work the invisible decrease consistently throughout these rounds so the closing remains clean and smooth on the outside

Round 23 and closing:

• Stuff the egg firmly with fiberfill before this round — add the stuffing in small, pulled-apart tufts rather than large clumps, pressing fiberfill firmly into the bottom half first to add weight and stability, then filling upward
• Mold the egg shape with your hands as you add the final amounts of fiberfill, checking that the top tapers smoothly without the stitches pulling apart
• Work 3 or 4 additional invisible decreases around this round until approximately 8 to 9 stitches remain
• Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of approximately 15 cm
• Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and weave it through the front loops of all remaining stitches, working all the way around the opening
• Pull the tail firmly and steadily to draw the top completely closed into a tight, neat circle
• Knot the tail close to the surface, then push the needle through the body and bring it out at the side, pull taut, and snip so the tail end disappears inside
• Gently massage the closed area with your fingers to redistribute any fiberfill that shifted during closing

The Paws / Legs (Make 2)

Work in continuous rounds. These are worked flat in the early rounds from a foundation chain, then built upward as a tube.

Round 1 — Foundation:

• Chain 5
• In the 2nd chain from the hook (not the chain closest to your hook, but the next one), work 2 sc into the same chain — 1 increase
• Work 1 sc into each of the next 2 chains
• In the very last chain at the end, work 5 sc into that single chain — this turns the corner and begins the return journey along the opposite side of the foundation chain
• Working back along the underside of the foundation chain: work 1 sc into each of the next 2 chains, then 2 sc into the final chain

Round 2:

• Work 2 sc into each of the first 2 stitches — 2 increases at the toe end
• Work 1 sc into each of the next 2 stitches
• Work 2 sc into each of the next 5 stitches — 5 increases across the toe curve
• Work 1 sc into each of the next 2 stitches
• Work 2 sc into each of the last 2 stitches — 2 increases at the heel end

Rounds 3 and 4:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases across both rounds
• These rounds add height to the paw base and establish the foot shape

Round 5:

• Work 1 invisible dec into every 4th stitch around — 5 decreases total, with the remaining stitches at the very end of the round receiving 1 sc each if needed to complete the round

Round 6:

• Work 1 invisible dec into every 3rd stitch around — 4 decreases total, with 1 sc into the final stitch

Round 7:

• Work 1 invisible dec into every 2nd stitch around — 4 decreases total
• Stuff the paw firmly with fiberfill — the paw needs enough fill to hold its rounded shape and support the weight of the egg body during assembly
• Cut the yarn, leaving a tail
• Thread the tail onto your yarn needle, weave through the remaining front loops to close the opening, pull tight, and hide the tail inside the paw
• Make a second paw in exactly the same way

The Ears (Make 2)

Work in continuous rounds.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Chain 1
• Work 5 sc into the center of the ring
• Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases

Round 3:

• Work 1 inc into every 2nd stitch around — 3 increases total, with sc into the stitches between

Round 4:

• Work 1 inc into every 3rd stitch around — 3 increases total, with sc into the stitches between

Rounds 5, 6, 7, and 8:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• Repeat this same even round a total of 4 times
• These rounds build the main length of the ear

Round 9:

• Work 1 invisible dec at the beginning of the round
• Work 1 sc into each of the next 4 stitches
• Work 1 invisible dec
• Work 1 sc into each of the remaining stitches to finish the round

Rounds 10 and 11:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across both rounds
• Slip stitch to finish
• Leave a long yarn tail for assembly — do not trim
• Make a second ear in exactly the same way

Assembly

Shaping the ears before attaching:

• Thread your yarn needle with the ear’s long tail
• Pass the needle through a stitch at one bottom corner of the ear, then through a stitch at the other bottom corner, pulling the thread to draw the two base edges slightly closer together
• This single stitch cups the ear and gives it a natural, three-dimensional shape before it goes onto the head
• Knot the shaping stitch securely on the inside of the ear

Attaching the ears:

• Position both ears on the top of the egg body between Rounds 20 and 22
• Pin both in place and check symmetry from the front and from directly above before sewing either one permanently
• Sew each ear by passing the needle under a stitch on the body, then through a stitch on the ear, alternating back and forth all the way around the base
• Add several additional securing stitches through the back of each ear and into the body so they stand upright rather than flopping forward

Embroidering the face:

• Thread your yarn needle with black cotton yarn
• Pin the eye positions first — a horizontal line across 3 stitches, centered between Rounds 14 and 15, with the two eyes spaced roughly 4 to 5 stitches apart
• Check the symmetry of the pins from the front before stitching anything
• Embroider each eye as a straight horizontal satin stitch across 3 stitches
• Add 3 short diagonal lines angling outward from each eye for the lashes — aim for light, consistent stitches that sit on top of the fabric rather than sinking in
• When both eyes and lashes are complete, thread both yarn tails to the inside of the body
• Tie the two tails together in a knot at the base and pull them back through the body interior to hide them completely

Attaching the paws:

• Position both paws on the lower front-sides of the egg body, checking that the bunny sits balanced and upright before securing
• Sew them in place using the yarn tail and a whip stitch worked all the way around the paw opening, or use a hot glue gun for a quick and firm bond if the toy is intended for display rather than handling

FAQ

Q: Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton for this pattern? Yes — the construction works identically in acrylic. The difference is in feel and drape: cotton gives a slightly heavier, crisper result with very clean stitch definition, while acrylic is lighter and softer. The egg body sits upright partly because of the weight of cotton stuffed firmly — an acrylic version may need a small piece of weighted material (a coin wrapped in felt, for example) placed in the base before stuffing to achieve the same stability.

Q: Are there any safety concerns for gifting this to a baby? The sleeping eyes in this pattern are embroidered rather than plastic safety eyes, which makes them the safer choice for any age. Check that all yarn tails are firmly knotted and buried inside the body before gifting, and that the paw attachment is secure enough to withstand handling. If the paws are glued rather than sewn, hot glue is not always robust for toys that will be chewed or pulled — sewing is the more durable and child-safe attachment method.

Q: My egg body is leaning to one side. How do I fix it? Leaning almost always traces to uneven stuffing in the lower half of the body. The base needs to be packed firmly and evenly so the weight sits centered. If the egg is already closed, gently compress it between your palms and knead the fiberfill toward the lighter side. If it is still open, remove some fiberfill, redistribute it evenly across the bottom third of the body, and repack. The paw positioning also affects balance — check that both paws sit at the same height on either side of the body before the glue or stitching sets.

Q: The invisible decrease leaves a visible gap on my work. What am I doing wrong? The invisible decrease works specifically through the front loops only of two consecutive stitches. If you are accidentally catching the back loop on either stitch, the decrease leaves a larger, more visible hole. Slow down on the first stitch of each decrease and look carefully at the two loops on top of the stitch before inserting your hook — the front loop is the one closest to you. Inserting through only the front loops of both stitches before yarning over produces a nearly seamless join. If gaps still appear, check that you are not pulling the decrease too tight, which can bunch the surrounding stitches.