Crochet Lamb Amigurumi Free Pattern For Christmas Keychain

Bobbles across the body and a plain darker face give a crochet amigurumi lamb its fleece without anything sewn on for texture. Small enough for a keyring, so a set of them finishes across an evening.

Bobble stitch across the body is what gives this crochet lamb amigurumi free pattern for christmas keychain its fleece, and the face and legs stay plain so the contrast reads properly. The body works as a small rounded piece with the bobbles worked in as you go, then a darker head, four thin legs, and two small ears attach. Cream fleece against a black or grey face. A keyring loop goes on at the top once everything is joined.

Crochet Lamb Amigurumi Christmas

The gift tag on the parcel said “something small and handmade,” which is the most stressful kind of instruction if you leave it until the week before Christmas. This lamb turned out to be the answer two years running. It works up small enough to finish in an afternoon, fits neatly onto a keychain or gift bag, and the ruffled fleece texture on the head — built from the unworked front loops left open in rounds two through four — is one of those structural tricks that looks far more complicated than it is. Once you understand what the back-loop rounds are doing, you will use the same technique on everything.

Why I love this one: the moment the ruffles go in, the whole head transforms. Before that step it reads as an ordinary smooth sphere. After five minutes of chaining into the exposed loops, it suddenly looks exactly like a lamb. That shift is satisfying every single time.

Pattern Notes

Two things to flag before you start. First, round 12 of the head closes in front loops only but no stitch count is given in the source pattern. Based on round 11 ending at 18 stitches and the pattern using [1 SC, DEC] as the consistent closing sequence, the expected count is 12 — but the pattern does not state this, so work to your own count and treat it as approximate. Second, the leg construction involves cutting the yarn partway through and reattaching to continue upward, which is the method given in the source. The post follows it as written.

Abbreviations

• MR — magic ring
• CH — chain
• SC — single crochet
• DC — double crochet
• INC — increase, two SC worked into the same stitch
• DEC — decrease, two stitches worked together
• SL ST — slip stitch
• BLO — back loop only
• FLO — front loop only
• [ ] — repeat the bracketed sequence around

Materials and Tools

• 3-ply yarn in white or cream for the body and head, roughly 30 to 40 g
• 3-ply yarn in brown or dark brown for the legs, a small amount, around 10 g
• 3-ply yarn in pink for the accent flower, a short length
• Green yarn for the flower stem base, a short length
• 2.5 mm crochet hook
• Two 6 mm safety eyes
• Fibrefill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Craft glue for attaching the flower

Finished size is approximately 7 to 9 cm tall, which is a working estimate for 3-ply yarn at 2.5 mm gauge. Allow around two to three hours for the full set including assembly.

Pieces List

• Body — make 1
• Head — make 1 (with ruffles added after)
• Legs — make 2
• Ears — make 2
• Accent flower — make 1

The Pattern

Body

• Round 1: Work 6 SC into a MR. Pull the tail to close. [6]
• Round 2: Work 2 SC into every stitch around. [12]
• Round 3: [1 SC, INC] repeat around. [18]
• Round 4: [2 SC, INC] repeat around. [24]
• Round 5: [3 SC, INC] repeat around. [30] By round 5 the body disc should sit completely flat — no cupping yet. If the edge is already lifting upward the increases are too tight.
• Rounds 6 to 9: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 4 rounds. [30] The body should now be a clean, even cylinder at the midpoint.
• Round 10: [3 SC, DEC] repeat around. [24]
• Round 11: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. [24]
• Round 12: [2 SC, DEC] repeat around. [18]
• Round 13: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. [18]
• Round 14: [1 SC, DEC] repeat around. [12] The body should read as a compact oval here, clearly narrowing toward the neck opening.
• Round 15: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. [12]
• CH 1 and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Head

• Round 1: Work 6 SC into a MR. Pull the tail to close. [6]
• Round 2: Working in BLO only, work 2 SC into every stitch around. [12] The unworked front loops from this round will become the ruffle anchor later.
• Round 3: Working in BLO only, [1 SC, INC] repeat around. [18] The unworked front loops from this round will also become ruffle anchors.
• Round 4: Working in BLO only, [2 SC, INC] repeat around. [24] By round 4, three rings of exposed front loops run along the inside face of the disc. Keep them open and do not work into them yet.
• Round 5: Working through both loops as normal, [3 SC, INC] repeat around. [30]
• Rounds 6 to 9: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 4 rounds. [30] The head should be a full dome at this point, sitting high and round.

Insert the 6 mm safety eyes now, between rounds 6 and 7, leaving approximately 5 stitches of space between them. Press the washers firmly onto the posts from inside. This must happen before round 10 tightens the opening.

• Round 10: [3 SC, DEC] repeat around. [24]
• Round 11: [2 SC, DEC] repeat around. [18]
• Round 12: [1 SC, DEC] working in FLO only. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Head Ruffles

• Attach white yarn to one of the unworked front loops remaining from round 2.
• [CH 3, SL ST into the next exposed front loop] repeat all the way around the round 2 front loops.
• Secure and weave in the end. Repeat the same process for the exposed front loops from round 3 and round 4, each as a separate ruffle ring. The three rings of loops produce three layers of curls stacked concentrically across the top and front of the head, and this is what reads as the fleece.

Legs (Make 2)

Using brown yarn for both legs.

• Round 1: Work 7 SC into a MR. Pull the tail to close. [7]
• Round 2: Work 1 SC in each stitch around. [7] The base of the leg is a small flat disc at this point.
• CH 1 and fasten off to finish the bottom base.
• Reattach yarn with a SL ST into any stitch on the top edge of the base.
• Rounds 3 to 6: Work 1 SC in each stitch around for 4 consecutive rounds. [7] The leg should now be a compact little stub, even in width all the way up.
• Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Repeat for the second leg.

Ears (Make 2)

• Round 1: Work 6 SC into a MR. Pull the tail to close. [6]
• Round 2: Work 2 SC into every stitch around. [12] The ear is a small flat circle and nothing more. Pull the tail tight and leave a sewing length.
• CH 1 and fasten off leaving a long tail for attachment. Repeat for the second ear.

Accent Flower

• Make a small crocheted loop base using green yarn. CH several times to form the stem foundation, then SL ST to close into a ring.
• Attach pink yarn to the centre of the ring with a SL ST.
• Work 5 DC into the ring to form the five petals.
• Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Stuffing Guide

Both the body and head need firm stuffing before their final closing rounds. A soft body will collapse under the head’s weight and the whole piece will slump. Pack fibrefill in gradually so it fills the piece evenly without creating lumps against the yarn surface. The legs take a small pinch each, just enough to keep them from flopping entirely flat. The ears take no stuffing at all — they are left as flat circles and that is correct. Do not stuff the flower.

Assembly

Pin before anything gets sewn. At this scale — roughly 7 to 9 cm — a few millimetres of placement difference changes the whole expression of the face, so take the time. Sew the head to the body first, centred and sitting straight. Then pin the two legs to the underside of the body, symmetrical and level, and sew them in. Ears go on the sides of the head, near the top, angled slightly forward. The flower attaches with craft glue rather than sewing — press it flat against the head or neck area and hold it for thirty seconds.

Toy Safety

The 6 mm safety eyes go in between rounds 6 and 7 of the head, and they must be secured before round 10 closes the opening further. For a child under three, skip safety eyes entirely and embroider the eyes with black yarn instead — several tight passes in a small oval, then knot and bury the ends inside the head. At this size, the whole finished lamb is small enough to be a swallowing hazard for a very young child regardless of eye type. For infants or toddlers, scale up to a larger hook and heavier yarn, or save this version for an older child or an adult’s bag charm.

Yarn Substitution and Size Scaling

3-ply at 2.5 mm is what keeps this keychain-sized. Go up to 4-ply at 3.0 mm and the lamb comes out roughly 11 to 12 cm, which is a better gift size if you want something you can actually wrap. The BLO texture rounds in the head still work the same way regardless of yarn weight, but the ruffles will be more pronounced in a thicker yarn because each chain 3 loop has more body. Avoid anything fluffy or textured for the head piece — you need to see the front loops clearly to attach the ruffles, and eyelash or boucle makes that nearly impossible.

FAQ

• Do I need to stuff the body before closing it, or can I do it after? Stuff before you close. Once the final rounds pull in past 12 stitches the opening is too small to get fibrefill in evenly. Stuff through the gap before round 15 on the body and before round 10 on the head.
• The ruffle loops are hard to find. Am I doing something wrong? Plush or fuzzy yarn would bury them completely, which is why 3-ply is specified here. With smooth yarn in good light, run your fingertip along the surface from the flat face of the disc and you will feel the unworked loops as a ridge. Work into that ridge ring by ring.
• Can I skip the flower? Yes, and the lamb reads fine without it. A small bow in red or green ribbon is an easy swap that photographs well.
• Is the leg construction correct? It seems like the yarn gets cut and reattached mid-piece. That is how the pattern is written and it produces a clean colour change between the base disc and the leg tube. Follow it as given — the reattachment point gets hidden when the legs are sewn to the body.