Crochet Mr Bean Teddy Bear Pattern Free

Understuffing gives this crochet Mr Bean Teddy Bear the floppy, worn look that firm amigurumi never gets. Button eyes and a plain stitched mouth finish it, and the whole bear works up small enough to clip onto a bag.

Pop culture amigurumi land differently when the reference is specific enough to be immediately recognizable, and this crochet Mr Bean teddy bear hits that mark. The embroidered triangular ear details and oversized black nose are the two features that distinguish it from a generic bear pattern and anchor it clearly to the source character.

Crochet Mr Bean Teddy Bear

Materials & Tools

Yarn: Brown yarn in your chosen shade

Hook: Sized to match your chosen yarn weight

Other supplies:

• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Safety eyes or black yarn for embroidered eyes
• Black yarn for the nose and mouth embroidery
• Stitch marker
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR — Magic ring
• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
• dec — Decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
• st — Stitch
• sl st — Slip stitch

Customization Ideas

Color: Classic Teddy is a warm medium brown. A golden tan reads as honey-colored; a dark coffee brown reads as more vintage. A muted dusty brown gives a worn, well-loved feel that suits the character particularly well.

Scale: A DK weight yarn on a 3.5 mm hook gives a compact desk companion — close to Teddy’s actual screen proportion relative to an adult hand. A chunky yarn on a 5.5 mm hook gives a large, giftable plush. The construction is identical at any scale.

Expression: The character’s bear has a deliberately plain, almost expressionless face — small eyes, minimal muzzle, no strong smile. Keeping the embroidered mouth as a very short straight line or the gentlest possible downward curve stays true to the original. A wider smile or larger eyes produces a different, more generic teddy that loses the specific character feel.

The muzzle: Keeping the muzzle small and the nose embroidery minimal is what gives Teddy his recognizably blank expression. A larger muzzle or more elaborate nose embroidery makes the face look busier than the character warrants.

The Pattern

Head

Use brown yarn. Work in continuous rounds with a stitch marker in the first stitch of each new round.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each of the 6 stitches from Round 1

If you’re still learning how to read crochet patterns, no stress! Follow the video tutorial below and use the written pattern below as you get more comfortable!

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Round 4:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Rounds 5 through 9:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• Repeat this same even round a total of 5 times
• These rounds build the smooth spherical shape of the head

Round 10:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Place the eyes now, while the head is still accessible — between the middle rounds, evenly spaced and small:

• Mark both positions with scrap yarn, spacing them slightly apart to match the plain teddy style
• Check from the front before pressing any washers on
• Press each locking washer firmly all the way down the post until it locks
• Begin stuffing the head firmly at this point

Round 11:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Round 12:

• Work 1 dec over every pair of stitches around — consecutive decreases all the way around

Closing:

• Fasten off, leaving a tail of approximately 15 cm
• Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close, knot, and hide the tail inside

Body

Use brown yarn. Work in continuous rounds.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Round 4:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Rounds 5 through 12:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• Repeat this same even round a total of 8 times
• The body is deliberately longer than the head — these straight rounds create that proportion

Round 13:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Round 14:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round
• Stuff the body firmly — firm stuffing is what lets the bear sit upright without collapsing
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head on

Muzzle

Use brown yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Center the muzzle on the lower front of the face and pin it in place before sewing
• Sew all the way around the outer edge using small stitches
• Using black yarn, embroider a small nose at the top center of the muzzle — keep it minimal
• Add a short, understated mouth below the nose — a tiny straight line or the faintest downward curve stays truest to the character

Ears (Make 2)

Use brown yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around

Rounds 3 and 4:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across both rounds
• Flatten each ear slightly before attaching
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew one ear to each side of the top of the head, positioned slightly toward the top rather than the middle
• Pin both ears before sewing either one and check symmetry from the front

Arms (Make 2)

Use brown yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes

Rounds 3 through 8:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 6 times
• Add a light amount of stuffing — the arms should feel soft and flexible rather than firm
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew both arms to the sides of the body at the same height, checking symmetry before sewing either one permanently

Legs (Make 2)

Use brown yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around

Rounds 3 through 6:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 4 times
• Stuff the legs lightly
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew both legs to the lower front of the body, evenly spaced, so the bear can sit without tipping

Assembly

Pin all pieces loosely first and look at the bear from the front, from the side, and in a sitting position before sewing anything permanently. Small adjustments at the pinning stage make a visible difference to the finished symmetry. Sew the head onto the body first — this anchors the proportions for everything else. Then attach the arms, legs, and ears. Add the muzzle and embroider the face last, once you can see the finished figure and judge the expression in proportion to the whole bear.

Tips

• Keep the face deliberately plain. The whole point of this specific character bear is the minimal, almost expressionless face. Resist the impulse to add more embroidery, larger eyes, or a brighter expression — restraint is what makes it recognizable. Small, slightly spaced eyes and a tiny muzzle with minimal nose stitching are all this face needs.
• Stuff the head and body at different densities. A firmly stuffed head sits well on the body and holds the muzzle against the face without sagging. The arms and legs should be noticeably softer — light stuffing in the limbs creates a more natural, slightly floppy posture that suits this character’s proportions.
• Sew the head on last and check the angle. Pin the head to the body with it facing directly forward, look at the bear from the front, then from the side, and confirm it sits straight before sewing. A head angled even slightly off-center is immediately visible and hard to correct after the seam is complete.

FAQ

Q: Can I make this with safety eyes and give it to a child? Safety eyes with locking washers are not suitable for children under three due to choking risk. For a gift going to a young child, embroider both eyes using black yarn in a tight satin stitch oval — the result is safe, secure, and actually suits the character’s deliberately simple expression rather well. Embroider after the head is fully stuffed and closed so you have a firm surface to work against.

Q: The body looks too round — it doesn’t have the right teddy proportions. What can I adjust? The body’s longer shape comes from Rounds 5 through 12 — eight straight even rounds. If the body still reads as too spherical, try adding one or two additional straight rounds to lengthen it further before beginning the decreases. Conversely, if the body looks too elongated compared to your head size, reduce the straight rounds by one or two. The proportional relationship between head and body is what makes this specific character bear recognizable — the body should be visibly longer than it is wide.

Q: Can I use jointed limbs instead of sewn-on arms and legs? Yes — plastic doll joints work with this construction and allow the arms and legs to move rather than sitting fixed. Insert the joint hardware before closing each limb, position the disc on the body side, and lock in place before stuffing the body. This modification makes the bear more poseable but adds some complexity to the assembly order. For a display piece or for an older child who will handle the bear frequently, joints are worth the extra step.

Q: How do I make the bear sit upright without tipping forward? Forward tipping almost always comes from legs positioned too far back under the body, or from the head being heavier than the body can balance. Check the leg placement before sewing permanently — the legs should sit toward the front-bottom of the body rather than directly underneath the center. Firm body stuffing also helps stability. If the bear still tips after the seams are closed, a tiny flat weight (a coin sewn inside a small piece of felt) placed inside the body before closing redistributes the center of gravity.