Placement decides the face here, so pin the muzzle and eyes before sewing anything and the crochet teddy bear pattern free easy amigurumi stops looking like a mouse. Fuzzy yarn covers uneven stitches, which makes this a reasonable first bear.
Classic teddy bear amigurumi never go out of style, and this crochet teddy bear pattern shows exactly why. The brown chenille body, white muzzle, and round ears hit every familiar note while the velvet texture of the yarn gives the finished piece a softness that makes it feel more like a store-bought plush than a handmade project.
Crochet Teddy Bear Amigurumi
Separate pieces for the head, body, ears, arms, and legs are sewn together after individual assembly, which is the standard construction method for this style of bear and produces clean, well-defined joints throughout. The white muzzle crocheted as its own small oval and then attached to the face is a small detail that makes a significant difference to how the finished expression reads.
Materials & Tools
Yarn:
- Himalaya Dolphin Baby or similar plush yarn in Brown — main color for the body, head (upper section), legs, arms, and ears
- Himalaya Dolphin Baby or similar plush yarn in White — for the muzzle section of the head
- YarnArt Jeans or any thin Black yarn — for sewing the nose and embroidered toe lines
Hook: 4.0 mm
Safety eyes: 9 mm
Other supplies: Polyester fiberfill stuffing, long yarn needle, stitch marker, scissors
Abbreviations
- R — Round
- ch — Chain stitch
- sl st — Slip stitch
- sc — Single crochet
- inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
- dec — Decrease (2 stitches worked together)
- BLO — Back loops only
- TRB — Triple crochet bobble stitch
Difficulty & Time
Intermediate beginner. All stitches are single crochet, increases, and decreases, plus one bobble stitch for the tail — explained below. The more unusual elements are the chain-2 start instead of a magic ring, the BLO round on the leg, the color change mid-head, and the in-round arm and leg joins on the body. Each of these is straightforward once you understand what it does. Allow two to three evenings for the complete bear.
Beginner Technique Notes
- Chain-2 start instead of magic ring: Every piece in this pattern starts with a chain 2 rather than a magic ring. Chain 2 stitches, then work all the first-round single crochets into the second chain from the hook — the one sitting next to the slip knot. This creates a closed starting circle in the same way a magic ring does. If you already know the magic ring, you can substitute it here; the chain-2 method is simply an easier alternative that produces the same result.
- Spiral rounds and stitch markers: All pieces work in continuous spiral rounds — you crochet the last stitch of one round and keep going into the next without joining or chaining. Because there is no visual break between rounds, the only reliable way to know where a round ends and the next begins is a stitch marker. Place a locking marker into the first stitch of every new round and move it up each time you complete a round. On plush yarn specifically, where stitches hide inside the pile, a missing stitch marker can cost you an entire round’s count before you notice.
- Working in plush yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby and similar microfiber yarns produce a soft, pillowy result but make individual stitches very difficult to see. Count stitches by touch as well as by sight — you can feel the top of each stitch even when the yarn pile covers it visually. Work under bright light. Slow down on decrease rounds especially, because misplaced decreases create asymmetry that is more noticeable on a small rounded piece than on most other projects.
- Increases and decreases: An increase means working 2 sc into the same stitch rather than moving to the next stitch — this adds one stitch and makes the piece grow outward. A decrease means working 2 stitches together into 1 — this removes one stitch and pulls the piece inward. The invisible decrease is strongly recommended: insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the stitch after it, yarn over and pull through both loops, then yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops. This leaves almost no visible gap on the right side — important on a light-colored or plush fabric.
- BLO round on the leg: Round 4 of the leg is worked into the back loops only of every stitch. Working BLO leaves the front loops exposed as a visible ridge around the foot — this ridge is the structural line that visually separates the foot from the leg. The round itself feels exactly like a normal round; you just insert your hook under only the back loop rather than both loops. Look at the top of each stitch and you will see two loops — the front loop (closer to you) and the back loop (farther away). Insert under the back loop only.
- Color change mid-head: The head starts in White yarn for the muzzle area, then switches to Brown after Round 4. To change color cleanly: on the final yarn-over of the last stitch before the switch, draw the new color through those 2 loops instead of the old color. This places the color join at the start of the new round rather than mid-round, giving the sharpest possible color boundary.
- The triple crochet bobble tail: In Round 6 of the body, the pattern calls for 5 TRB (triple crochet bobbles) worked together to form the teddy’s tail. A TRB bobble: yarn over twice, insert hook into the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice — one unfinished triple crochet made. Repeat this 4 more times into the same stitch so you have 6 loops from 5 unfinished stitches on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops at once to close the bobble. This produces a raised rounded bump on the outside of the work — that bump is the tail.
- In-round leg and arm joins: In Round 6 of the body, the legs are crocheted directly into the body — your hook passes through a body stitch and the corresponding leg stitch simultaneously, working them together with sc. This is stronger than sewing the legs on afterward and places them precisely. Before starting Round 6, position both legs facing forward against the body so they are ready to be worked in at the right position. The same technique applies to the arms in Round 15.
- Safety eye placement: The eyes go between the white muzzle section and the brown upper head section — while the head is still open and easy to reach inside. Mark both positions with scrap yarn, check the spacing from the front (wider reads as cuter), and press each locking washer firmly all the way down the post from the inside until it clicks. Eyes cannot be adjusted once the washer is locked.
- Stuffing timing: Stuff the feet firmly before closing each leg — they need to hold their shape and support the bear’s weight. The lower arms should also be stuffed, but leave the upper arm section softer and more flexible so the fold lies flat for in-round attachment. The head should be packed firmly with extra attention to the cheek and muzzle area to create the fuller teddy expression. The body needs dense stuffing near the neck to support the head after assembly.
The Pattern
Ears (Make 2)
Use Brown yarn. Work in spiral rounds.
Round 1:
- Chain 2
- Work 6 sc into the second chain from the hook — the one sitting next to the slip knot
- Pull the tail to close the center
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each of the 6 stitches from Round 1
Just starting out with crochet? The video tutorial below is a great place to begin, or challenge yourself with the written pattern below!
Round 3:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
Finishing:
- Fold the ear flat by pressing both edges together so both layers line up
- Work sc stitches directly through both layers to close the opening — this creates a clean folded edge
- Do not stuff the ears — flat ears sit better and look cleaner against the head
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
Legs (Make 2)
Use Brown yarn. Work in spiral rounds.
Round 1:
- Chain 2
- Work 6 sc into the second chain from the hook
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around
Round 3:
- Work 1 inc into the first stitch, then 1 sc into the next stitch
- Repeat this combination — 1 inc followed by 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round
Round 4 — BLO:
- Work 1 sc into the back loop only of every stitch around — insert your hook under only the back loop, not both loops
- This round leaves a visible ridge that marks the foot edge and is what gives the foot its defined shape
Round 5:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
Round 6:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 3 times
- Work 9 sc to finish the round
Round 7:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 3 times
- Work 6 sc to finish the round
Rounds 8 through 12:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
- Repeat this same even round a total of 5 times
Round 13:
- Work 11 sc around
Finishing:
- Stuff the leg firmly — pack the foot area especially densely so the bear can support its own weight later
- Keep the upper edge slightly softer and less packed so it folds flat for in-round attachment
- Fold the top opening flat and work 6 sc through both layers to close
- Fasten off
Arms (Make 2)
Use Brown yarn. Work in spiral rounds.
Round 1:
- Chain 2
- Work 6 sc into the second chain from the hook
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around
Rounds 3 and 4:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across both rounds
Round 5:
- Work 3 consecutive dec — 3 decreases in a row
- Work 6 sc to finish the round
- These decreases narrow the arm and create the gentle paw shape
Rounds 6 through 12:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
- Repeat this same even round a total of 7 times
Round 13:
- Work 11 sc around
Round 14:
- Work 4 sc, then 1 dec
- Repeat this combination — 4 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 3 times around the round
Finishing:
- Stuff the lower arm section firmly — leave the upper arm unstuffed or very lightly packed
- Softer upper arms are easier to fold flat and work into the body in Round 15 of the body
- Fold the top opening flat and work 6 sc through both layers to close
- Fasten off
Head
Start with White yarn. Work in spiral rounds.
Round 1:
- Chain 2
- Work 6 sc into the second chain from the hook
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around
Round 3:
- Work 1 inc into the first stitch, then 1 sc into the next stitch
- Repeat this combination — 1 inc followed by 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round
Round 4:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
- Rounds 1 through 4 form the white muzzle section — built directly into the head so no separate piece needs to be sewn on later
Switch to Brown yarn at the start of Round 5: on the final yarn-over of the last stitch in Round 4, draw Brown yarn through to complete the color change cleanly.
Round 5:
- Work 6 sc in Brown
- Work 6 inc in Brown — 6 consecutive increases
- Work 6 sc in Brown to finish the round
Round 6:
- Work 6 sc
- Work the combination of 1 inc followed by 1 sc a total of 6 times
- Work 6 sc to finish the round
Rounds 7 and 8:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across both rounds
Round 9:
- Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 9 times around the round
Round 10:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
Round 11:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 9 times around the round
Rounds 12 and 13:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across both rounds
Round 14:
- Work 4 sc, then 1 dec
- Repeat this combination — 4 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 3 times around the round
Before closing: insert the 9 mm safety eyes between the muzzle transition and the brown upper head section. Mark both positions, check spacing from the front, and press each washer firmly all the way down the post from inside before continuing.
Stuff the head firmly — push fiberfill outward toward the cheeks and muzzle for the fullest expression.
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body
Body
Use Brown yarn. Work in spiral rounds.
Round 1:
- Chain 2
- Work 6 sc into the second chain from the hook
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around
Round 3:
- Work 1 inc into the first stitch, then 1 sc into the next stitch
- Repeat this combination — 1 inc followed by 1 sc — a total of 6 times around the round
Round 4:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 9 times around the round
Round 5:
- Work 2 sc across the first 2 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
- Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 9 times around the round
Round 6 — Attaching the legs and forming the tail:
- Before starting this round, position both completed legs facing forward against the base of the body so they are ready to be worked in
- Work 6 sc through both the body stitches and the corresponding stitches of the first leg simultaneously — your hook passes through both layers together for each of these 6 stitches, locking the leg directly into the body
- Work 12 sc around the body between the legs
- Work 6 sc through both the body stitches and the corresponding stitches of the second leg simultaneously to join the second leg
- Work 4 sc along the body
- Work 5 TRB (triple crochet bobble stitches) into the next stitch to form the tail:
- Yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice — one unfinished triple crochet made
- Repeat 4 more times into the same stitch
- Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on the hook at once — bobble complete, tail formed
- Work 7 sc to finish the round
Rounds 7 and 8:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across both rounds
Round 9:
- Work 2 sc, then 1 dec
- Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 9 times around the round
Round 10:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
Round 11:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 9 times around the round
Rounds 12 and 13:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across both rounds
Round 14:
- Work 4 sc, then 1 dec
- Repeat this combination — 4 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 3 times
- Stuff the body firmly now — pack extra fiberfill near the neck area to support the head weight after assembly
Round 15 — Attaching the arms:
- Position both completed arms against the sides of the body, pointing downward, so they are ready to be worked in
- Work 4 sc through both the body stitches and the corresponding stitches of the first arm simultaneously
- Work 4 sc around the body
- Work 4 sc through both the body stitches and the corresponding stitches of the second arm simultaneously
- Work 3 sc to finish
- Slip stitch to join and fasten off
Assembly and Face
Sew the head onto the body — take time adjusting the angle before sewing any permanent stitches. A head tilted very slightly forward rather than perfectly upright gives the finished bear a softer, more expressive quality. Position the ears symmetrically on the top sides of the head rather than directly on top — slightly to the sides gives a more balanced teddy silhouette. Using the thin black yarn and a long needle, embroider a triangle nose shape on the white muzzle, and add short lines across the toes or fingers if desired. Weave all remaining tails inside the body.
FAQ
Q: I’ve never used a chain-2 start before. Is it really the same as a magic ring? For practical purposes, yes. Both create a small closed center to work from. The chain-2 start is slightly faster and easier for beginners — you chain 2, then work all your Round 1 single crochets into the second chain from the hook, and the starting yarn tail pulls the center closed just like a magic ring tail does. The only difference is that the chain-2 center is marginally less adjustable after the fact, but on a fully stuffed amigurumi piece this makes no visible difference.
Q: The in-round leg join is confusing me. What exactly am I doing in Round 6? You are crocheting through two layers at once. Hold the first completed leg flat against the underside of the body at the position where you want it attached. Insert your hook through the next body stitch and then continue through the corresponding stitch on the leg’s folded edge — two layers on the hook simultaneously. Complete a normal sc through both layers. Repeat for 6 stitches total. When you are done, the leg is locked into the body by those 6 stitches rather than sewn on afterward. It sounds complicated but feels straightforward the moment you try it.
Q: Can I skip the bobble tail and leave the bear without a tail? Yes — simply work those 5 stitches as regular sc rather than as a bobble cluster. The tail is a small decorative detail that adds charm but does not affect the construction or structure of the bear. If bobble stitches are unfamiliar, this is actually a very low-stakes place to try one for the first time — it is a single small spot in a large round, and if it does not look right you can easily unpick those 5 stitches and redo them.
Q: Are 9 mm safety eyes safe for a baby or toddler gift? Safety eyes with locking washers are not recommended for children under three regardless of size — the post can disengage with determined pulling. For a baby gift, embroider both eyes in black yarn using a tight satin stitch oval after the head is fully stuffed and closed. Embroidered eyes are completely secure, give the face a softer quality, and require no hardware at all. For the nose, the thin black embroidery yarn specified in the pattern is already the safe approach — no additional changes needed.
Q: My plush yarn keeps hiding the stitches and I lose count constantly. What helps? Three habits together solve most of this: a locking stitch marker in the first stitch of every single round without exception; counting stitches by feel (running your fingertip along the top of each stitch) rather than relying on visual identification; and working under a bright directed light source rather than ambient room light. Many makers find that plush yarn amigurumi take slightly longer per round than smooth yarn projects simply because of the counting pace — this is normal and worth building into your time estimate rather than rushing.