Warm earthy tones give this crochet bunny and carrot amigurumi a look that sits apart from the typical pastel Easter rabbit. The finished toy has long floppy ears, a brown bow accent on top of the head, and a small orange carrot tucked between its front paws, with soft pink blush applied to the cheeks as a finishing detail that adds a lot of personality to the face.

Bunny And Carrot Crochet

Materials & Tools

Yarn: Susan’s Family 5-ply yarn, or any 5-ply yarn with a matching hook — main color for the bunny body, plus orange and green for the carrot

Hook: 2.5 mm

Other supplies:

• 7 mm safety eyes with locking washers
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Dressmaker pins for assembly

Abbreviations

• ch — Chain
• sl st — Slip stitch
• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
• dec — Decrease (2 stitches worked together into 1)
• hdc — Half double crochet
• dc — Double crochet
• rnd — Round

Difficulty

• Intermediate

Technique Notes — With Tips Built In

• Working in continuous rounds: Every main piece — head, legs, body, arms — is worked in a continuous spiral. No slip stitch joins and no chain-ups at the end of each round. Place a locking stitch marker in the first stitch of every new round and move it up the moment the round is complete. On a 2.5 mm hook with 5-ply yarn the stitches are small and close together, and missing a round boundary without a marker is easy to do. Count your stitches at the end of the first four rounds of every new piece before you get too far in to easily correct a miscount.
• Safety eye placement: The 7 mm eyes go in during the head construction, while the opening at the base of the head is still wide enough to comfortably reach inside. Mark both positions with loops of scrap yarn first, space them symmetrically on either side of the center front of the head, and look at the face from the front and from slightly above before pressing any washers on. The eyes should sit at the same level on each side — even half a stitch of difference reads visibly on the finished face. Once the locking washers are pressed all the way down the posts, the eyes cannot be moved without cutting the fabric.
• Stuffing the head and body: The head needs firm stuffing to maintain its round shape and to support the weight of the ears once they are attached. Add fiberfill gradually in small, pulled-apart pieces rather than one large clump, packing the outer walls of the head first before filling the center. After stuffing, roll the head between your palms to even out the fill and smooth any lumps before continuing with the closing rounds. The body should also be firmly packed — a well-stuffed body is what allows the bunny to sit upright without slumping. Leave the very tops of both arms and both ears unstuffed so they lie naturally flat against the body and head rather than sticking out stiffly.
• Leg-join construction: The two legs are made separately. The first leg is fastened off and set aside; the second leg is completed but the yarn is left live on the hook. From the second leg, you chain a small bridge, join into the first leg, and work a round that travels through both legs and the joining chain — this is the foundation round of the body. This method is standard for sitting amigurumi figures and gives the finished bunny a stable base. The key detail is keeping your hook tension even across the joining chain so no large gap opens at the crotch between the legs.
• Invisible decrease: The pattern uses decreases throughout the body to shape the torso as it tapers toward the neck. The invisible decrease — worked through the front loops only of two consecutive stitches — produces a much cleaner surface than a standard sc2tog and is strongly recommended here, especially across the upper body rounds where the decrease lines are visible from the front.
• Closing each piece neatly: When a piece is fully stuffed and the final rounds are complete, fasten off and leave a tail of about 15 cm. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and pass it through the front loops only of the remaining stitches all the way around the opening. Pull steadily to close the hole into a tight circle, knot the tail close to the surface, then push the needle through the piece and snip the tail so it disappears inside. For pieces that will be sewn to the body — arms, ears, wings — leave a much longer tail instead of closing: this tail becomes your sewing thread.

The Pattern

Head

• Work the head in continuous rounds, starting from a magic ring and increasing outward over the first several rounds to build a fully rounded ball shape
• Keep a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you go
• As the head reaches its widest point, work a number of even rounds to build height before beginning the closing decrease rounds
• Before the opening becomes too small to reach inside comfortably — well before the final closing rounds — place the 7 mm safety eyes
• Mark both positions with scrap yarn first, spacing them symmetrically on either side of the center front
• Check the spacing from the front and from above
• Push each post through the fabric from the right side, reach inside, and press the locking washer all the way down the post until it locks — eyes are permanent once washers are secured
• Continue the decrease rounds to close the head
• Before the opening narrows past comfortable reach, stuff the head firmly with fiberfill — add it in small pieces toward the outer walls first, then fill the center, and roll the head between your palms to even the stuffing
• Close the final opening by threading the yarn tail through the remaining front loops, pulling tight, knotting, and hiding the tail inside

Ears (Make 2)

• Work two identical ear pieces — long and floppy rather than short and upright
• Each ear is built in continuous rounds, increasing in the early rounds to build width, then working straight rounds to build the full length of the ear
• Leave the tops of the ears unstuffed — the upper portion should remain flat and soft so it drapes naturally when attached to the head
• Fasten off each ear leaving a long tail for sewing
• Make the second ear immediately after the first so your tension stays consistent and both ears come out the same size

Legs (Make 2)

• Work two separate leg pieces in continuous rounds, beginning with a magic ring and shaping the foot base in the early rounds before building the straight leg tube upward
• First leg: Complete all rounds, fasten off, and set aside
• Second leg: Complete all rounds but do not fasten off — leave the working yarn live on the hook

Body — Built Directly from the Joined Legs

• From the second leg with live yarn, chain a small bridge of stitches
• Insert your hook into the first leg at the stitch where it was fastened off and work 1 sc to join
• Work sc all the way around the first leg, work sc into each side of the joining chain, work sc all the way around the second leg, then work sc back along the opposite side of the joining chain — this completes the foundation round of the body
• Place your stitch marker and continue working upward in continuous rounds, building the rounded belly of the torso
• After the widest body rounds, begin working gradual decrease rounds to taper the torso up toward the neck area
• Stuff the body firmly as it closes — add fiberfill in layers every few rounds rather than waiting until the final closing rounds
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching the head

Arms (Make 2)

• Work two small arm pieces in continuous rounds, starting from a magic ring
• Shape the paw end in the early rounds, then work straight rounds to build the arm length
• Leave the very top section of each arm unstuffed — only lightly fill the lower two-thirds so the arm can lie flat against the body during assembly
• Fasten off each arm, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Make both arms in the same session so the tension and length match

Angel Wings (Make 2 or as one joined piece, per the construction method)

• The wings are worked flat using a combination of half double crochet and double crochet stitches to create the shaped, layered wing silhouette
• Work the wing shaping in rows, building the rounded outer edge and pointed lower tip characteristic of angel wings
• Do not stuff the wings — they are flat decorative pieces
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to the back of the body
• If making two separate wing panels, make them as mirror images so they sit symmetrically on either side of the body center

Carrot Accessory

• Work the carrot body in orange yarn, starting from a magic ring at the narrow tip and increasing outward as you work downward toward the wider base — or work from wide to narrow depending on the construction direction used
• The carrot body is a tapered cone shape worked in continuous rounds
• Once the carrot shape is complete, fasten off the orange yarn
• Attach green yarn at the top of the carrot and work the leafy top — several small chain loops or a cluster of chain stitches radiating from the same stitch create the carrot fronds
• Fasten off the green yarn and weave in all ends on the carrot

Assembly

Lay all eight completed pieces out in front of you — head, body, two ears, two arms, two wings, and carrot — before picking up the sewing needle. Pin everything in position with dressmaker pins and check the complete figure from the front, both sides, and directly above before sewing a single stitch.

Head to body:

• Align the base of the head with the open neck area of the body, checking that the face points directly forward and the head sits centered over the body’s midline
• Check that the neck join keeps the bunny balanced over its center of gravity — the head is the heaviest component and a misaligned join causes the finished figure to lean
• Sew all the way around the neck join using a whip stitch, catching the stitches of both pieces on every pass
• Reinforce the seam with a second pass in the opposite direction for durability

Ears:

• Position both ears symmetrically on the top of the head, spaced equally from the center crown
• The ears should hang downward and slightly outward for a floppy look — check the drape from the front before sewing
• Sew each ear all the way around its base, not just a few tacking stitches

Arms:

• Attach both arms to the sides of the upper body, directly below the neck join
• Angle both arms very slightly forward so the paws can realistically cradle the carrot prop
• Check that both arms sit at exactly the same height before sewing either one permanently

Wings:

• Attach the wings to the center back of the body, one on each side of the spine line
• Space them symmetrically and check the placement from directly behind before sewing

Nose embroidery:

• Using a strand of yarn or embroidery thread in pink or brown, embroider the nose centered between the two safety eyes and one round lower than the eye line
• A small inverted triangle in satin stitch or a simple horizontal line works well for this scale

Carrot:

• Position the carrot in the bunny’s arms, angled slightly so the pointed tip faces downward and outward
• Tack it lightly to the paws with a few hidden stitches if you want it permanently held rather than removable

Finishing:

• Weave all remaining yarn tails into the center of the body cavity, pulling each one snug before snipping
• Give every sewn joint a gentle firm tug to check the seam holds before the toy is gifted or handled

Customization Ideas

• Color palette: The classic white bunny reads as clean and sweet for a baby gift. A warm cream with blush pink inner ears and nose gives a vintage look. Grey reads as contemporary and sophisticated. Any solid pastel works for the body — the wing and carrot accents provide the color contrast.
• Skip the wings: Without the angel wings this is simply a sitting bunny with a carrot prop — equally charming and slightly faster to finish. The wing attachment points on the back can be left plain or a tiny embroidered detail added instead.
• Carrot variations: Make two or three miniature carrots in different sizes and tuck them next to the bunny rather than in its arms. A tiny crocheted basket to hold them is a straightforward addition using the same 2.5 mm hook and a few rounds of increase followed by straight rows for the sides.
• Scale: A 2.5 mm hook with 5-ply produces a compact, finely detailed bunny. Moving up to a 4.0 mm hook and DK weight produces a noticeably larger version with the same proportions. The construction is identical at any scale.

FAQ

Q: Can I make this bunny without safety eyes for a baby gift? Yes — embroider both eyes using black yarn in a tight satin stitch oval or circle instead. Worked firmly through the fabric and knotted securely on the inside, embroidered eyes are completely safe for any age and give the face a softer, slightly rounder look that suits a baby bunny expression well. The nose embroidery is already sewn rather than a plastic piece, so this is already the safer of the two face details.

Q: The two legs came out slightly different sizes. How do I fix it before assembly? If the difference is small — half a round or so — blocking both legs lightly before assembly brings them into alignment. Dampen the finished legs, stretch or compress each one to the same length, pin to a foam mat, and let them dry flat. For a larger size difference, the most reliable fix is to unravel the longer leg back to where the lengths diverge and re-work those rounds to match. Making both legs back to back in the same session prevents most size variation by keeping your tension consistent.

Q: My bunny tips forward rather than sitting upright. What went wrong? Forward tipping usually traces to one of two things: the head-to-body join is slightly off-center, pulling the weight forward; or the legs are not positioned far enough forward under the body. Before sewing the head permanently, check that it sits centered directly above the body’s midline — even a few stitches of offset shifts the center of gravity. For the legs, pin them in position, stand the assembled body on a flat surface, and check the balance before sewing. Moving the legs slightly forward from where they look natural from the front is usually enough to correct a forward lean.