Free Crochet Baby Tiger Amigurumi Pattern

Materials

Yarn:

• White yarn — for the muzzle patch, inner ear, and early head rounds
• Orange yarn — for the main head and outer ear sections

Embellishments and notions:

• Black embroidery floss — for facial feature details
• Pink embroidery yarn or thread — for the nose and mouth
• Scrap yarn or plastic stitch markers — for marking eye positions
• A pair of safety eyes with locking washers
• One 1.5 cm button — for the joint mechanism base
• 15 to 20 cm of craft wire — for the poseable neck joint

Tools:

• Crochet hook sized to match your yarn weight
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing

Difficulty & Time

All stitches in this pattern are single crochets, increases, and decreases. The tapestry colorwork requires carrying a second yarn behind the work, but the technique is explained fully in the notes below and becomes comfortable very quickly. Expect the head and ears to take 3 to 6 hours depending on your experience level with colorwork. This is a strong project for a beginner ready to try two-color work for the first time.

Technique Notes

1. Magic ring: Make a loop with your yarn, insert your hook through the loop, pull up a working strand, and chain 1 to secure the loop on the hook. Work all the stitches of Round 1 directly into the center of the loop, then pull the short yarn tail to draw the ring completely closed with no hole at the center. The magic ring is how almost all amigurumi pieces begin — practice it on scrap yarn before starting if it feels unfamiliar, because it becomes instinctive after two or three attempts.
2. Single crochet: Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull a loop up through the stitch so you have 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over again and pull through both loops to complete the stitch. One single crochet made. Every stitch in this pattern is a single crochet, an increase built from two single crochets, or a decrease that joins two stitches into one.
3. Increase: Work 2 single crochets into the exact same stitch rather than moving on to the next stitch. This adds one stitch to your total count and causes the piece to grow outward and widen with each increase round. When the pattern says to work 1 increase, work both single crochets fully before moving to the next stitch.
4. Invisible decrease: This is the preferred decrease method for amigurumi because it leaves almost no visible gap in the fabric. Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then immediately through the front loop only of the stitch after that — you now have 2 loops on your hook from two separate stitches. Yarn over and pull through both of those loops so you have 2 loops remaining on the hook. Yarn over again and pull through those 2 loops to complete the stitch. Two stitches have been reduced to one, and the join is clean and nearly invisible from the outside. Use this method for every decrease in this pattern. A standard sc2tog leaves a small gap that is distracting on amigurumi fabric — the invisible decrease eliminates it.
5. Tapestry colorwork and carrying yarn: When the pattern switches between white and orange within the same round, you carry the color not currently in use loosely behind the work. To carry yarn correctly: hold the inactive yarn against the back surface of the stitches you are working, and let each single crochet pass over it, encasing it inside the stitch without pulling it through. When you reach the point where you need to switch colors, pick up the new color by drawing it through the final 2 loops of the stitch just before the switch — the last yarn-over of that stitch uses the new color, not the old one. Keep the tension of the carried yarn relaxed and consistent. If you pull it too tight, the fabric puckers inward along the color boundaries. If you leave it too loose, the carried strand creates a visible float behind the stitches. Aim for a tension that lets the fabric lie flat without pulling.
6. Stitch markers and eye placement: Before installing safety eyes, mark the intended position with a loop of scrap yarn threaded through the stitch. This lets you check that both markers sit symmetrically, view them from the front and from above, and adjust without commitment. Once you are satisfied with the placement, push the safety eye post through the fabric at each marked position from the right side, reach inside, and press the locking washer firmly all the way down the post until it clicks and locks. Safety eyes cannot be removed once the washer is secured — mark carefully and check twice before installing.
7. Stuffing timing: Add fiberfill gradually as you work the decreasing rounds rather than waiting until the opening is almost closed. The head becomes increasingly difficult to reach inside as the rounds progress. Aim to have the head mostly stuffed before Round 19, then add the final top-up through the neck opening as you complete the last closing rounds. Stuff firmly enough that the head holds a round shape when you press it gently, but not so tightly that the stitches stretch apart and show gaps.

The Pattern

Part 1 — Head

Start with white yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly
• Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round

Round 2:

• Chain 1 to bring your working yarn to the correct height
• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 6 increases total, one into each of the 6 stitches from Round 1
• Join with a slip stitch

Round 3:

• Work 2 sc into the first stitch, then 2 sc into the next stitch, then 1 inc into the third stitch
• Repeat this sequence — 2 sc, 2 sc, 1 inc — a total of 4 times around the round
• Join with a slip stitch

Just starting out with crochet? The video tutorial below is a great place to begin, or challenge yourself with the written pattern below!

Youtube

Round 4:

• Work 3 sc across the first three stitches, then 1 inc into the fourth stitch
• Repeat this sequence — 3 sc, 1 inc — a total of 4 times around the round
• Join with a slip stitch

Round 5 — first color round:

• Work 5 sc in white yarn
• Carry the orange yarn behind the work and switch to orange: draw orange through the final 2 loops of the 5th white stitch to begin the color change
• Work 10 sc in orange, carrying the white yarn loosely behind each stitch
• Switch back to white for the final section: draw white through the final 2 loops of the 10th orange stitch
• Work 5 sc in white to complete the round
• Join with a slip stitch
• The white sections form the beginning of the muzzle patch; the orange forms the top and sides of the head

Round 6:

• Work the exact same color layout as Round 5
• Work 5 sc in white, carry orange behind
• Work 10 sc in orange, carry white behind
• Work 5 sc in white to finish
• Join with a slip stitch

Rounds 7 and 8:

• Continue the same color arrangement as Rounds 5 and 6 across both rounds
• Work 5 sc in white, 10 sc in orange, 5 sc in white in each round
• Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round
• The face shape is building upward with each round — keep your carried yarn tension consistent

Round 9:

• Work 6 sc in white
• Switch to orange and work 2 sc in orange
• Switch to white and work 1 inc into the next stitch in white
• Switch to orange and work 2 inc in orange — one increase into each of the next 2 stitches
• Switch to white and work 1 inc into the next stitch in white
• Switch to orange and work 2 sc in orange
• Switch to white and work 6 sc in white to finish the round
• Join with a slip stitch
• These increases begin widening the center of the face where the muzzle will sit

Round 11 — eye placement round:

• Continue the established white and orange colorwork pattern throughout this round
• Work 6 sc in white
• Work 2 inc in white — one increase into each of the next 2 stitches
• Work 2 inc in orange — one increase into each of the next 2 stitches
• Before moving further, pause and place a loop of scrap yarn or a stitch marker at each of the two positions where the safety eyes will sit — mark them now while the opening is still wide enough to reach inside comfortably
• Complete the remainder of the round following the colorwork pattern
• Join with a slip stitch

Rounds 11 through 15:

• Continue following the established white and orange tapestry colorwork arrangement across all rounds
• Continue building the facial shaping with each round as directed by the increase and decrease pattern
• At some point between Round 11 and Round 15, while the neck opening is still accessible, install the safety eyes: push each post through the fabric at the marked position from the right side, reach inside, and press the locking washer all the way down the post until it clicks into place
• Check that both eyes sit level and symmetrical before locking — once the washers are pressed on, the eyes are permanent
• Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round

Round 16:

• Cut the white yarn and fasten it off — weave the tail into the stitches at the back of the work to secure it
• Continue entirely in orange from this round onward
• Work 40 sc around evenly with no shaping changes
• Join with a slip stitch

Rounds 17 and 18:

• Work 40 sc around evenly in orange in each round
• No shaping changes across both rounds
• Join with a slip stitch at the end of each round

Round 19:

• Work 6 sc, then work 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 6 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 5 times around the round
• Join with a slip stitch

Round 20:

• Work 5 sc, then work 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 5 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 5 times around the round
• Join with a slip stitch

Round 21:

• Work 4 sc, then work 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 4 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 5 times around the round
• Join with a slip stitch

Install the joint mechanism before continuing:

• Cut a length of craft wire between 15 and 20 cm
• Thread both ends of the wire through two holes of the 1.5 cm button so the button sits at the center of the wire with equal lengths extending from each hole
• Position the button flat against the inside base of the head with the two wire ends pointing upward out through the neck opening
• Stuff the head firmly around the button and wire now, packing fiberfill in small pieces around the button to lock it in place and prevent it from shifting
• The wire ends should remain free and exit cleanly through the neck opening — they will connect to the body in the next stage of assembly

Round 22:

• Work 3 sc, then work 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 dec — a total of 5 times around the round
• Join with a slip stitch

Rounds 23 and 24:

• Continue decreasing following the same established pattern — reducing the stitch count each round to close the neck opening
• Work carefully around the wire ends so they remain free and undamaged as you close the final rounds
• Close the neck opening neatly
• Leave a long yarn tail for finishing — do not trim close

Part 2 — Ears (Make 2)

Start with orange yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring in orange
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly
• Do not join with a slip stitch — this piece is worked in a continuous spiral

Round 2:

• Chain 1
• Work 3 inc in orange — one increase into each of the first 3 stitches
• Switch to white yarn by drawing white through the final 2 loops of the third orange increase
• Work 3 inc in white — one increase into each of the next 3 stitches
• Join with a slip stitch
• The orange section forms the outer ear; the white section forms the inner ear

Round 3:

• Switch back to orange
• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the second stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 3 times in orange
• Switch to white
• Work 1 sc into the next stitch, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — a total of 3 times in white

Rounds 4 and 5:

• Work 9 sc in orange across the orange half of the ear
• Work 9 sc in white across the white half of the ear
• Maintain the color division cleanly across both rounds, keeping the orange and white sections separate

Finishing each ear:

• Fasten off
• Cut the white yarn close to the surface and weave the end in completely so it does not show
• Leave a long orange tail — this tail is what you will use to sew the ear onto the head

Completing the Joint Mechanism

Once the head is fully assembled and the ears are ready to attach, confirm the wire joint is correctly positioned before closing:

• Thread both wire ends fully through the two holes of the button inside the head, confirming the button is lying completely flat against the inside base of the head
• Guide the wire ends evenly through the neck opening so equal lengths extend from each side — these will thread through corresponding holes in the body piece to create the poseable neck connection
• Ensure the stuffing around the button is firm enough that the button cannot shift or rotate inside the head when the neck is moved
• The neck opening should be neatly closed around the wires with no loose stitches gaping around the wire exits

Customization Ideas

1. Color palette: The orange and white combination is the classic tiger read, but the same tapestry construction works beautifully in grey and cream for a snow leopard, tawny yellow and cream for a lion cub, or black and white for a panda. Any two-color combination that gives clear contrast between the muzzle patch and the outer head will read immediately as a big cat.
2. Skipping the wire joint: If you want a simpler, softer version without the poseable neck, skip the button and wire entirely and simply stuff the head firmly before closing. Sew the finished head directly to the body with a whip stitch worked all the way around the neck opening. The head will sit fixed rather than poseable, which is the right choice for a toy intended for a young child.
3. Facial expression: The expression is primarily shaped by eyebrow embroidery placement and the angle of the black facial features. Straight horizontal brows above the eyes give a calm, open expression. Brows angled slightly downward toward the center read as focused or serious. Try positioning with pins and a little black thread before committing to the embroidery.
4. Size: The finished size depends on your yarn weight and hook size. A DK weight yarn on a 3.5 mm hook produces a compact head. A worsted weight on a 4.5 mm hook gives a noticeably larger, more substantial result. Keep both yarn colors in the same weight so the colorwork sections sit flush.

FAQ

Q: The colorwork is puckering at the color change points. What am I doing wrong? The most common cause is carrying the unused yarn too tightly behind the work. The carried yarn should lie passively against the back of the stitches without pulling — if you can see the fabric pulling inward at the color boundaries, loosen your grip on the carried strand. A useful check: lay the piece flat after each round and look at the color transition from the back. If the carried yarn forms a visible taut line across the back, it needs to be relaxed.

Q: Can I use a wire armature safely in a toy for a child? The wire joint described in this pattern is intended for display pieces or for older children under direct adult supervision — not for young children or babies. If the tiger is going to a child under eight, omit the wire entirely, stuff the head firmly, and sew it directly to the body as a fixed attachment. For any child, check that all yarn tails are fully secured and buried inside the piece before handing it over.

Q: I missed the eye placement window and now the opening is too small. What do I do? If the opening is too small to install safety eyes with backings, you have two options. The first is to carefully unpick the last two or three decrease rounds, install the eyes, then re-work those rounds. The second is to embroider the eyes instead using black yarn in a tight satin stitch — this is actually the safer choice for a child’s toy and the result reads well against the orange face. Marking eye positions with scrap yarn before the closing rounds begin is the habit that prevents this entirely.