A lighter muzzle and matching ears separate this crochet monkey pattern free easy from every other round-headed amigurumi. Long arms and a curled tail finish it, and neither needs anything past increases and decreases.
Elongated arms and legs are what define this crochet monkey amigurumi and set it apart from more compact animal designs. The proportions give the finished piece a lanky, expressive quality that reads immediately as a monkey even before you notice the beige muzzle and face patch details.
Crochet Monkey Amigurumi
Working the limbs as long tubes before stuffing and attaching them is the most time-consuming part of this pattern, but it is also what makes the final result so satisfying. The two-tone construction using brown and beige throughout keeps the color changes minimal while still producing a finished piece with a lot of visual detail across the face, hands, and feet.
Materials & Tools
Yarn:
- Brown yarn — main color for head, body, ears, arms, legs, and tail
- Beige yarn — for the muzzle and inner ears
- Black yarn or embroidery thread — for the nose and mouth embroidery
Hook: Sized to match your chosen yarn weight
Other supplies:
- Safety eyes or black yarn for embroidered eyes
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
Abbreviations
- MR — Magic ring
- sc — Single crochet
- inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
- dec — Decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
- st — Stitch
- sl st — Slip stitch
Difficulty & Time
Easy beginner. The individual stitches are all single crochet, increases, and decreases — nothing more complex. The number of pieces (eight in total) is where the time investment goes. Allow two to three evenings for the full monkey, including assembly. The head, body, and muzzle each take the longest; the ears, inner ears, and arms are quick.
Tips
- Place the safety eyes before Round 11 of the head. The decrease rounds begin at Round 11 and the opening narrows quickly. Setting both eyes between Rounds 7 and 8 — while the head is still fully open — is much easier than trying to reach in and lock washers through a narrowing gap. Mark both positions with scrap yarn loops first, check the spacing from the front, and confirm both eyes sit at the same height before pressing the washers on. Once locked, safety eyes cannot be removed.
- Use a stitch marker in every round without exception. Continuous rounds have no visual break between them, and amigurumi rounds all look similar. A locking marker placed in the first stitch of every new round is the only reliable method for keeping your count. Move it up at the start of each round rather than at the end of a session.
- Stuff the head and body firmly; stuff arms and tail lightly or not at all. The contrast in stuffing density is what makes the finished monkey feel natural — a firmly stuffed head sits upright on the body, while lightly stuffed arms drape rather than stick out rigidly. The tail should have little to no stuffing so it remains flexible enough to curve.
- Attach the muzzle before the eyes are locked if possible. The pattern places the eyes first, but if you haven’t committed yet, sewing the muzzle to the lower face first gives you a visual reference for eye placement. The eyes should sit above the muzzle with enough space between them for the beige circle to read as a distinct feature. Centering the nose embroidery after the muzzle is sewn is much easier than working backward from pre-placed eyes.
- Sew the head to the body slowly and check the angle. The head is the most prominent piece and its angle determines the whole character of the finished monkey. Pin the head in place and check from the front, the side, and above before sewing a single permanent stitch. A head that tilts even slightly reads as expressive rather than balanced. If after assembly the head feels loose, go back and sew a second pass around the neck seam in the opposite direction — doubled seams are nearly invisible from the outside and significantly more durable.
- Assembly order: muzzle → eyes (if not already placed) → inner ears onto brown ears → ears onto head → arms → body → legs → tail. Working in this order means each piece gives you reference points for the next.
The Pattern
Head
Use brown yarn. Work in continuous rounds with a stitch marker in the first stitch of each new round.
Round 1:
- Make a magic ring
- Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
- Pull the ring closed tightly
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each of the 6 stitches from Round 1
Round 3:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round
Round 4:
- Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
- Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round
Still getting the hang of reading crochet patterns? That’s completely okay, the video tutorial below breaks everything down in a simple, beginner-friendly way!
Round 5:
- Work 1 sc into each of the first 3 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
- Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round
Rounds 6 through 10:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
- Repeat this same even round a total of 5 times
- These rounds build and maintain the widest section of the head
Place the safety eyes now, between Rounds 7 and 8, while the head is still fully open:
- Mark both positions with scrap yarn, leaving space between them for the muzzle
- Check from the front that both eyes sit at the same height and are symmetrically placed
- Press each locking washer firmly all the way down the post from the inside until it clicks — eyes cannot be adjusted once locked
Round 11:
- Work 1 sc into each of the first 3 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round
Round 12:
- Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round
Stuff the head firmly now — add fiberfill in small pieces toward the outer walls first, then fill the center. Focus extra stuffing toward the cheeks to build a full, rounded face shape.
Round 13:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round
Round 14:
- Work 1 dec over every pair of stitches around — consecutive decreases all the way around the round
Closing:
- Fasten off, leaving a tail of approximately 15 cm
- Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close the hole, knot, and hide the tail inside
Muzzle
Use beige yarn.
Round 1:
- Make a magic ring
- Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
- Pull the ring closed tightly
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around
Round 3:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round
Round 4:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
Finishing:
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
- Add a small pinch of fiberfill behind the muzzle before attaching — just enough to give it a gentle dimensional quality without puffing it out so far that it reads as a snout
- Position the muzzle on the lower front of the head, centered below the eyes
- Sew all the way around the outer edge, pulling the stitches through both the muzzle and the head fabric on every pass
- Using black yarn or embroidery thread, embroider a small triangle or oval for the nose at the center of the muzzle
- Add a short vertical line from the base of the nose downward, then split it into two gentle outward curves for the mouth
Body
Use brown yarn. Work in continuous rounds.
Round 1:
- Make a magic ring
- Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
- Pull the ring closed tightly
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around
Round 3:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round
Round 4:
- Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
- Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round
Rounds 5 through 10:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
- Repeat this same even round a total of 6 times
Round 11:
- Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round
Round 12:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
Stuff the body firmly now.
Round 13:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round
Finishing:
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body
- Pin the head onto the body and check alignment from the front, side, and above before sewing
- Sew all the way around the neck join — if the head feels loose after sewing, add a second pass of stitches around the join in the opposite direction
Ears (Make 2)
Use brown yarn.
Round 1:
- Make a magic ring
- Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
- Pull the ring closed tightly
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around
Round 3:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
- Flatten each ear slightly before attaching — a fully rounded ear reads as bulky; a gently flattened one sits naturally against the head
Inner Ears (Make 2)
Use beige yarn.
Round 1:
- Make a magic ring
- Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
- Pull the ring closed tightly
Round 2:
- Work 1 inc into every stitch around
- Fasten off
- Sew one inner ear circle onto the center of each brown ear
- Sewing the inner ears to the brown ears before attaching the assembled ears to the head gives you easier access and a cleaner join
- Once both assembled ears are complete, sew them to the sides of the head — position them just behind the eyes for the most natural placement
- Pin both ears before sewing either one and check their symmetry from the front
Arms (Make 2)
Use brown yarn.
Round 1:
- Make a magic ring
- Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
- Pull the ring closed tightly
Rounds 2 through 7:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
- Repeat this same even round a total of 6 times
- Add a small amount of stuffing — light fill only; overstuffed arms splay outward stiffly rather than draping naturally
- Flatten the top opening of each arm so both layers line up evenly
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
- Sew both arms to the sides of the body, positioned slightly below the neck seam
- Check that both arms sit at the same height before sewing either one permanently
Legs (Make 2)
Use brown yarn.
Round 1:
- Make a magic ring
- Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
- Pull the ring closed tightly
Round 2:
- Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
- Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round
Rounds 3 through 6:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
- Repeat this same even round a total of 4 times
- Add a small amount of stuffing
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
- Sew both legs to the bottom front of the body, positioned evenly so the monkey sits balanced without tipping
- Check the sitting posture before sewing either leg permanently — leg position has more effect on the final balance than any other attachment
Tail
Use brown yarn.
Round 1:
- Make a magic ring
- Work 5 sc into the center of the ring
- Pull the ring closed tightly
Rounds 2 through 16:
- Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
- Repeat this same even round a total of 15 times to build the full-length tail tube
- Leave the tail unstuffed or add only a very small amount of stuffing — the tail should remain flexible
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
- Hold the tail in a gentle curve before sewing and maintain that curve as you stitch the base to the back of the body — this is what gives the finished monkey its characteristic curled tail
Customization Ideas
- Color: A warm caramel and cream combination gives the monkey a lighter, warmer look than the classic brown and beige. All-cream with a pale peach muzzle produces a very sweet, almost vintage quality. Using a variegated brown yarn for the body with solid beige for the muzzle adds texture without any additional technique.
- Expression: The embroidered mouth is the expression you have the most control over. A straight horizontal line reads as neutral. A gentle upward curve reads as happy. A slight downward curve reads as thoughtful. Try the mouth position with a pin or removable thread before stitching permanently — a two-stitch difference in the mouth curve changes the whole character of the face.
- Scale: Any yarn weight works with this pattern. A DK weight on a 3.5 mm hook gives a compact, detailed monkey. A bulky yarn on a 6.0 mm hook gives a large, huggable version. Keep all your yarn the same weight so the muzzle and inner ears sit proportionally against the body.
- Accessories: A tiny crocheted banana in yellow yarn — worked as a simple oval with a narrow stem — is a natural companion piece that photographs very well alongside the monkey. A small bow tied between the ears changes the character significantly for a girl-monkey version.
Yarn Substitution
Any smooth yarn works well for this pattern. Avoid fuzzy or bouclé textures on the muzzle and inner ear sections, where the contrast between brown and beige is the main visual detail — texture blur both colors together and the facial features read as muddied. For the body, a slightly heathered or textured brown can look lovely and adds natural depth. Cotton gives a crisp, structured result; acrylic is softer and more forgiving for a first attempt. Keep both colors in the same fiber content if possible so the finished piece has a consistent sheen and drape throughout.
FAQ
Q: The head sits at a slight angle on the body. Is it fixable after sewing? If the head is already sewn but the angle is minor, the fastest fix is to reinforce the seam on the side it needs to pull toward — adding a few extra stitches on that side draws the head slightly in that direction. For a significant tilt, the most reliable approach is to carefully unpick the seam with a seam ripper, reposition the head with pins, and resew. The muzzle and eyes will tell you immediately when the head is facing straight forward — use them as your centering guide rather than trying to measure by feel.
Q: Can I skip the inner ears? Yes — the inner ear beige circles are a detail rather than a structural element. The brown ears read clearly as ears without them. If you want to retain the two-tone look without making a separate piece, embroider a small filled oval in beige yarn onto the center of each brown ear instead — faster and still visually effective.
Q: How do I make the tail hold a curve? Work the tail with very little or no stuffing, then wet-block it by dampening the finished tail and pinning it into a curve on a foam mat. Let it dry completely before unpinning — cotton yarn holds a blocked curve extremely well. Acrylic holds the curve less well after blocking but can be heat-set: carefully apply gentle steam over (never touching) the curved, pinned tail to set the shape. Always test on a scrap piece of your specific yarn before applying heat to the finished project.
Q: The muzzle puckers when I sew it on. How do I fix it? Puckering usually means the sewing tension is too tight or the stitches are spaced unevenly. Work with a looser hand than feels natural and take more stitches around the perimeter rather than fewer — more attachment points means each individual stitch pulls less. After sewing, press the muzzle flat with your finger and hold it for a few seconds while the stuffing settles. A small amount of fabric glue along the outer edge of the muzzle before sewing also helps it lie flat while you stitch.
Q: Are safety eyes safe for a gift going to a baby? Safety eyes with locking washers are not recommended for children under three regardless of how securely they are locked. For a baby gift, embroider both eyes using black yarn in a tight satin stitch oval or circle — the result is completely secure, no hardware risk, and gives the face a slightly softer quality that suits a gift for a very young child. Embroider after the head is fully stuffed and closed for the firmest surface to work against.