Velvet yarn gives this crochet velvet bunny its pile without any brushing or extra finishing, and the fabric stays soft enough for a baby gift. Go down a hook size from the label so the stuffing never shows through the stitches.

Velvet yarn produces a texture on bunny amigurumi that is difficult to replicate with any other fiber, and this crochet velvet bunny pattern makes the most of it across both a white upright-eared version and a tan floppy-eared one. The soft, almost brushed surface of the finished pieces gives them a quality that sits closer to a plush toy than a traditional crocheted figure.

Crochet Velvet Bunny Amigurumi

Materials & Tools

Yarn: Plush or velvet yarn in white, beige, grey, or pink — any soft tone works; the fiber does the visual work here

Hook: Sized to match your chosen plush yarn

Other supplies:

• Safety eyes
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker

Abbreviations

• MR — Magic ring
• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
• dec — Decrease (invisible decrease recommended)
• st — Stitch
• sl st — Slip stitch

Technique Notes — With Tips Built In

Magic ring and continuous rounds: Every piece starts from a magic ring. The body, arms, legs, and tail are all worked in continuous spirals — no joining at the end of each round. On plush yarn, where individual stitches hide in the pile, a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round is the most important tool in this pattern. Move it up at the start of each new round without fail, and count your stitches at the end of every increase or decrease round before continuing. If you are off, it is far faster to fix now than after three more rounds.

Invisible decrease: Use the invisible decrease for every dec instruction. Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the stitch after it. Yarn over and pull through both of those front loops at once. Yarn over again and pull through the remaining 2 loops. This method leaves almost no visible gap on the right side — important on a plush fabric where a standard sc2tog creates a small dimple that reads as a defect.

Safety eye placement: The eyes go in between Rounds 7 and 8 while the head opening is still fully accessible. Mark both positions with scrap yarn loops before pressing any hardware. Check the spacing from the front — eyes placed evenly with enough space between them for the embroidered nose give the face its soft, centered expression. Press each washer firmly all the way down the post from inside until it clicks. Once locked, eyes cannot be adjusted without cutting the fabric.

Stuffing timing and density: On a combined head-and-body piece, begin stuffing after Round 12 when the lower body starts closing. The head section needs firmer stuffing than the lower body — focus the denser fill there first, then taper off as you reach the lower body area. Use small pulled-apart pieces rather than large clumps, and massage the shape with your hands between additions to identify and smooth any lumps before the opening closes.

Working with plush yarn: Stitch definition disappears into the pile on plush yarn. Count by touch as well as by sight — you can feel the top of each stitch with your fingertip even when you cannot see it clearly. Work under bright light and slow down on the decrease rounds specifically, since miscounted decreases create visible asymmetry that is hard to disguise on a small rounded piece.

Closing the final round: When the opening has decreased to 6 stitches, fasten off and leave a tail of about 15 cm. Thread the tail through the front loops only of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close the hole, knot the tail close to the surface, and push the needle through the body to bury the end inside before snipping.

The Pattern

Head and Body — One Continuous Piece

Use plush yarn in your chosen color. Work in continuous rounds with a stitch marker in the first stitch of each new round.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each of the 6 stitches from Round 1

Don’t let crochet patterns intimidate you! If you’re a beginner, the video tutorial below makes it super easy to follow along!

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Round 4:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Round 5:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 3 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Rounds 6 through 10:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• Repeat this same even round a total of 5 times

Place the safety eyes now, between Rounds 7 and 8, while the head opening is still fully accessible:

• Mark both positions with scrap yarn, spacing them evenly on both sides of the front
• Check from the front before pressing any washers on — eyes with space between them for the nose give the most balanced expression
• Press each locking washer firmly all the way down the post until it clicks

Round 11:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 3 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Round 12:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Begin stuffing now — fill the head section firmly first with small pieces of fiberfill, then continue more lightly into the lower body as you complete the remaining rounds

Round 13:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Round 14:

• Work 1 dec over every pair of stitches around — consecutive decreases all the way around

Closing:

• Fasten off, leaving a tail of approximately 15 cm
• Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close, knot, and hide the tail inside

Ears (Make 2)

Use plush yarn in your chosen color.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Rounds 3 through 8:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 6 times
• Flatten the ear by pressing both edges together — do not stuff
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew both ears on top of the head with a small gap between them
• Folding the base of each ear very slightly inward as you sew gives the ears a gentle dimensional quality — they sit upright rather than lying completely flat

Arms (Make 2)

Use plush yarn in your chosen color.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Rounds 2 through 5:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 4 times
• Add a small amount of stuffing into the lower section of the arm only — leave the upper section empty so the arm lies flat and flexible rather than sticking out stiffly
• Flatten the top opening of the arm so both layers line up
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew both arms to the sides of the body, positioned slightly below the head area
• Check that both sit at the same height before sewing either one permanently

Legs (Make 2)

Use plush yarn in your chosen color.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around

Rounds 3 through 5:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Repeat this same even round a total of 3 times
• Add a light amount of stuffing
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew both legs to the lower front of the body, checking the spacing from the front before sewing either one permanently

Tail

Use plush yarn in your chosen color.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes

Round 4:

• Work 1 dec over every pair of stitches around — consecutive decreases all the way around
• Add a small amount of stuffing — light fill only so the tail stays soft and rounded rather than firm
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew the tail to the center back of the bunny

Assembly and Face

Sew the ears, arms, legs, and tail in that order — checking the symmetry of each piece from the front before sewing the next. Weave all remaining yarn tails deeply into the body after every attachment. For the face: thread black or pink yarn onto your needle and embroider a small triangle or vertical line for the nose, centered between and slightly below the eyes. Add a short vertical stitch from the base of the nose, then split outward on each side for the mouth. Pull the embroidery gently — plush fabric distorts easily if the thread tension is too tight.

Customization Ideas

Color: White reads as the most classic bunny; grey reads as quieter and more sophisticated; dusty pink reads as sweet and immediately gifty; warm beige reads as a natural, vintage quality. All four work from the same pattern with no changes. For an Easter version, make one in each pastel color for a coordinated set.

Expression: The embroidered nose shape determines most of the expression. A small triangle gives a more structured, alert look. A vertical single line with the curved mouth below gives a softer, rounder face. Slightly lower placement of the nose relative to the eyes gives a more baby-like face; slightly higher reads as more adult. Try both on scrap yarn before committing.

Size: This pattern works at any scale. Fingering weight on a 2.0 mm hook gives a tiny pocket bunny. DK on a 3.5 mm hook gives a compact gift size. Chunky on a 5.5 mm hook gives a large, huggable nursery version. All construction is identical — only yarn weight and hook change.

FAQ

Q: Can I use regular acrylic yarn instead of plush? Yes — the construction is identical. Smooth acrylic gives crisper stitch definition and makes counting much easier than plush yarn does. The trade-off is texture: the soft, velvety quality of the finished bunny depends largely on the plush fiber rather than the construction. A smooth acrylic bunny looks tidier but feels firmer and more structured. For a child’s toy that will be handled frequently, smooth acrylic is actually more durable and easier to clean than most plush yarns.

Q: My bunny looks lumpy after stuffing. How do I fix it? Lumpiness is almost always fiberfill that went in as a large piece rather than small pulled-apart ones. If the bunny is already closed, gently knead and massage the body between your palms for a minute or two — warmth and pressure help the fiberfill redistribute. If the lump is significant and the piece is still open, remove the stuffing from that area and repack with smaller pieces. On plush yarn specifically, lumps are slightly less visible than on smooth yarn because the pile breaks up the light reflection — gentle massage usually resolves most of the visible unevenness.

Q: Are safety eyes safe for a baby gift? Safety eyes with locking washers are not suitable for children under three. For a baby or toddler gift, embroider both eyes using black yarn in a tight satin stitch oval — no hardware, no removable parts, and the embroidered version gives the face a slightly softer quality that suits a gift for a very young child. Embroider after the head is fully stuffed and closed so you have a firm surface to work against.