Crochet Amigurumi Silly Goose Free Pattern

Stuff the neck firmly or the head tips forward, and that single decision makes or breaks a crochet goose pattern free of any wire or armature. Two balls of yarn cover the whole bird, white for the body and orange for the beak and feet.

Laying a crochet goose flat with its wings spread out is a design choice that sets this amigurumi apart from most bird patterns, and it works beautifully in chunky white chenille yarn. The spread wing silhouette gives the finished piece a playful, oversized quality that makes it look more like a huggable plush than a typical amigurumi figure.

Crochet Goose Amigurumi

Materials & Tools

Yarn:

• White plush yarn — for the body, head, and wings
• Orange yarn — for the beak and feet

Hook: Sized to match your plush yarn’s label recommendation

Other supplies:

• Black safety eyes
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker

Abbreviations

• MR — Magic ring
• sc — Single crochet
• inc — Increase (2 sc into the same stitch)
• dec — Decrease (2 stitches worked together)
• st — Stitch
• sl st — Slip stitch

Difficulty & Time

Easy beginner with one intermediate concept — the continuous body-to-head construction that narrows into a neck and then expands again into the head. The individual stitches are all single crochet, increases, and decreases. Plush yarn makes stitch counting more challenging than smooth yarn, but the technique notes below explain how to handle that. Allow two to three evenings for a complete goose.

Beginner Technique Notes

1. The magic ring: Every piece in this pattern begins with a magic ring. To make one: wrap the yarn around your fingers to form a loop with the working yarn crossing over the tail, insert your hook through the loop from front to back, pull up a working strand, and chain 1 to secure. Work the first-round stitches into the center of the ring. When all stitches are complete, hold them in place and pull the yarn tail to close the ring — the center should draw completely shut with no hole. The magic ring is how every piece starts, and it is worth practicing on scrap yarn a few times until it feels comfortable, because it becomes instinctive very quickly.
2. Continuous rounds and stitch markers: This pattern works in continuous rounds — you crochet the last stitch of one round and continue directly into the first stitch of the next without joining or chaining. Because all rounds flow together without a visible break, the only reliable way to know where one round ends and the next begins is a stitch marker. Place a locking marker into the very first stitch you work in each new round, and move it up every time you complete a full round. On plush yarn especially — where the stitches hide inside the pile — the stitch marker is not optional. Without it, you will lose your round count within a few rounds and the shaping will drift.
3. Working with plush yarn: Plush yarn produces a soft, cloud-like texture but it makes individual stitches very hard to see. Work under a bright light. If you cannot see a stitch clearly, count with your fingertip — you can feel the top of each stitch even when you cannot see it. Count your stitches at the end of every increase and decrease round before continuing. If you are off by one or two stitches, it is much easier to fix immediately than after several additional rounds have been worked on top.
4. Increases: An increase means working 2 single crochets into the same stitch rather than moving to the next stitch. When the pattern says “inc around,” that means working a 2-sc increase into every single stitch in the round. When it says “[3 sc, inc] around,” that means working 3 sc normally and then 1 increase into the next stitch, repeating this combination all the way around.
5. Invisible decreases: The invisible decrease is strongly recommended for plush yarn because it produces a much cleaner surface than a standard sc2tog. To work it: insert your hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the stitch after that — 2 loops from 2 separate stitches on your hook. Yarn over and pull through both of those front loops at once. Then yarn over again and pull through the 2 remaining loops on your hook. One decrease complete. Working through front loops only is what prevents the small visible gap that a standard decrease leaves — on plush yarn this gap reads as a dimple or hole.
6. The neck construction: This is the most important thing to understand before you start the pattern. The body and head are one continuous piece. Rounds 1 through 12 build the body. Rounds 13 through 17 decrease and then plateau to form the neck — a narrower tube that connects body to head. Round 18 begins expanding again to build the head. The neck needs to be stuffed firmly during the decrease rounds — a loosely stuffed neck lets the head flop forward or sideways with handling. As the body narrows into the neck, add stuffing gradually so the neck column is solid enough to hold the head upright.
7. Safety eye placement: The eyes go in between Rounds 21 and 22 of the head — while the head is still open and easy to reach inside. Mark both positions with loops of scrap yarn before pressing any hardware in place. Count stitches from the center front to confirm both sides are symmetrical. Check from the front that the eyes look balanced — slightly wider spacing gives a softer, more serene expression; slightly closer gives a more playful look. Once you are satisfied with the placement, press each locking washer firmly all the way down the post from the inside. Eyes cannot be adjusted once the washer is locked.
8. Stuffing timing: Add stuffing in stages rather than all at once. Begin adding it during the decrease rounds of the body — by Round 13, the opening is still accessible and the body needs fill to maintain its shape as it closes. Continue adding small amounts through the neck rounds to keep that section firm. Stuff the head after placing the eyes and before continuing past Round 27. Use small, pulled-apart pieces of fiberfill rather than large clumps — large clumps create lumpy spots that show through even on plush yarn.
9. Closing the final round neatly: When the head has decreased to 6 remaining stitches, fasten off and leave a tail of about 15 cm. Thread this tail onto your yarn needle and weave it through the front loops only of the remaining stitches all the way around the opening. Pull the tail steadily to draw the hole completely closed into a tight, seamless circle. Knot the tail close to the surface, push the needle through the head, pull taut, and snip so the end disappears completely inside.

The Pattern

Body and Head — One Continuous Piece

Use white plush yarn. Work in continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every new round and move it up as you go.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each of the 6 stitches from Round 1

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Round 4:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

If you’re a beginner and crochet patterns feel confusing, start with the video tutorial below, it’s the easiest way to learn as you go!

Round 5:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 3 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Rounds 6 through 12:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• Repeat this same even round a total of 7 times
• These rounds build the full rounded belly of the goose

Round 13:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 3 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round
• Begin adding stuffing now while the opening is still accessible — fill the lower body firmly

Round 14:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes

Round 15:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round
• Continue adding stuffing as the body narrows — keep the lower section fully firm before the opening closes further

Round 16:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Round 17:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• This is the neck plateau — pack the neck column firmly with stuffing now. The neck must be solid enough to hold the head upright. Do not skip this; a soft neck leads to a flopping head

Round 18:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each stitch — the head begins expanding here

Round 19:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 3 stitches, then 1 inc into the following stitch
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Rounds 20 through 25:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no increases or decreases
• Repeat this same even round a total of 6 times
• These rounds build the full volume of the head

Place the safety eyes now, between Rounds 21 and 22:

• Mark both positions with scrap yarn loops on the front of the head
• Count stitches from the center front to confirm both sides are symmetrical
• Test the facial balance by inserting the beak temporarily before locking the eyes if desired
• Press each locking washer firmly all the way down the post from the inside

Round 26:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 3 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 3 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Round 27:

• Work 1 sc into each of the first 2 stitches, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 2 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Stuff the head now, before the opening narrows further — add fiberfill in small pieces, focusing on the cheeks and top of the head to build an evenly rounded shape

Round 28:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 dec over the next 2 stitches
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 dec — all the way around the round

Round 29:

• Work 1 dec over every pair of stitches around — consecutive decreases all the way around

Closing:

• Fasten off, leaving a tail of approximately 15 cm
• Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close, knot, and hide the end inside

Beak

Use orange yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Flatten the beak slightly before attaching — a flattened beak sits more naturally against the face than a fully rounded one
• Sew the beak centered between the eyes using small stitches so the join blends into the plush yarn
• Light stuffing inside the beak is optional — the piece is small enough to hold its shape without it

Wings (Make 2)

Use white plush yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 sc into the first stitch, then 1 inc into the next stitch
• Repeat this combination — 1 sc followed by 1 inc — all the way around the round

Rounds 3, 4, and 5:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes across all 3 rounds
• Flatten the wing by pressing both edges together
• Work sc across the flattened opening through both layers to join and close the wing
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew one wing to each side of the body, positioned near the neck area
• Pin both wings before sewing either one, checking that they sit at the same height
• Angle the wings very slightly downward for a relaxed, resting look

Feet (Make 2)

Use orange yarn.

Round 1:

• Make a magic ring
• Work 6 sc into the center of the ring
• Pull the ring closed tightly

Round 2:

• Work 1 inc into every stitch around — 2 sc into each stitch from Round 1

Round 3:

• Work 1 sc into every stitch around with no shaping changes
• Flatten each foot by pressing both edges together
• Work sc across the flattened opening through both layers to close
• Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
• Sew both feet to the underside of the body, positioned slightly toward the front
• Check that both feet sit level and evenly spaced before sewing either one permanently — even, slightly forward foot placement helps the goose sit upright without tipping backward

Assembly

Sew the beak first to establish the center reference point of the face, then place the wings. Secure the feet last so you can fine-tune the sitting balance before committing. Pin every piece before sewing and check from the front, the side, and directly above. After all pieces are attached, weave every remaining yarn tail deeply into the body interior — pass the needle through the stuffing in several directions before trimming so the tail cannot work loose. Gently massage the entire finished goose with both hands to even out the fiberfill and settle the plush fiber.

FAQ

Q: I’ve never worked with plush yarn before. Is this a good first project for it? This is a reasonable first plush yarn project — the construction is mostly single crochet with no complex stitches, and the large finished size gives you more surface to work with than a tiny keychain would. The main challenge is stitch visibility. Work under a bright lamp, count every round’s stitches by touch as well as sight, and move your stitch marker without fail. If you find plush yarn very difficult partway through, it is worth finishing just the body — even an incomplete piece teaches you the material’s behavior for future projects.

Q: My goose’s head keeps flopping forward after assembly. How do I fix it? A flopping head almost always means the neck was not stuffed firmly enough during Rounds 16 and 17. If the goose is already assembled, the fix is to open a small seam at the neck with a seam ripper, push additional stuffing into the neck column with a thin tool like a toothpick or the back end of a thin hook, then resew the opening. For future makes, stop and pack the neck firmly at Round 17 specifically — that plateau round is the moment the neck needs to be at its final firmness before the head begins expanding.

Q: Can I use safety eyes for a baby gift? Safety eyes with locking washers are not recommended for children under three due to choking risk. For a baby or very young child, embroider the eyes instead using black yarn in a tight satin stitch oval or filled circle — fully secure, no hardware risk. On white plush yarn, embroidered eyes in black read clearly and give the goose a slightly softer quality. Embroider after the head is fully stuffed and closed so you have a firm surface to stitch against.

Q: My increases are creating ridges instead of a smooth curve. What’s going wrong? On plush yarn, increase ridges are usually caused by the increases stacking directly above each other in the same position round after round. This pattern staggers the increases slightly between rounds to prevent this — work the increase combinations exactly as written rather than placing them all at the same position. If ridges are still appearing, try loosening your tension very slightly on the two stitches immediately surrounding each increase. Also check that you are genuinely working 2 sc into the same stitch for each increase — accidentally splitting the increase across two adjacent stitches creates a visible bump rather than a smooth expansion.

Q: How do I close the final round neatly on plush yarn? Work the tail through the front loops only of the remaining stitches rather than through both loops — this produces a smoother gathered closure with less visible puckering. Pull the tail very slowly and steadily rather than all at once, giving the plush fiber time to gather evenly. If the closure still shows a small bump or indentation, use your fingernail to gently tease the surrounding plush fibers over the join — the pile usually covers a slightly imperfect closure completely once it is redistributed over the top.